
                         THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
                 Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: THURSDAY, June 2, 1994                    TAG: 9405280191 
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS                     PAGE: 02    EDITION: FINAL  
SOURCE: Sam Martinette 
DATELINE: 940602                                 LENGTH: Medium

LONE STAR STEAKHOUSE HAS HERD OF GOOD EATIN'

{LEAD} The peanut shells on the floor and the line-dancing cowgirls are part of the Texas roadhouse atmosphere at the new Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon on Military Highway.

The folks are friendly, the steaks are large, and shucks pardner, there simply isn't anything else quite like it in this here town.

{REST} Offering mesquite-grilled steaks - from the 9-ounce Rosita's filet wrapped in bacon ($14.45) to a 20-ounce T-bone ($17.95) - and including baby back ribs ($12.95), a salmon filet marinated in bourbon and mesquite grilled ($13.95), and grilled or barbecued chicken breasts ($10.95), Lone Star is brash and brawny when it comes to ambiance and food.

``We offer casual dining in the mid-price range for a steak house, with Texas-sized portions,'' said John White, chief financial officer of Lone Star Steakhouse, the parent company.

Located in Wichita, Kan., the end of the trail for many a Texas steer, Lone Star Steakhouse has restaurants as far west as Las Vegas, and as far south as Florida, according to White.

With western murals, vintage photos of cowboys roping and branding, corrugated sheet metal and stacked beer cases, the new Lone Star is a far cry from the polite Western Steer Restaurant that most recently operated at the location next to Toys 'R Us, across from Best Square on Military Highway.

Although the new steakhouse offers a full bar, White was quick to point out that the emphasis is on food. ``When we say Texas-sized portions, we're stressing the freedom of Texas, its casual and bountiful nature,'' he said. As for the line dancing, ``There are a few contemporary country songs we play and the employees will stop serving momentarily and sing a few verses,'' he added.

As for the menu, ``Texas Teasers'' include Amarillo cheese fries (fries smothered in jack and cheddar cheeses, topped with bacon and served with a ranch dressing - $4.95), mesquite-grilled shrimp ($5.95), and baby back pork ribs ($4.95 a half-rack and $8.75 for a large rack).

We tried the black bean soup ($1.50 a cup and $2.25 a bowl), which was good and spicy, with chunks of jalepeno peppers, and a steak soup, with chunks of tender beef.

If you choose you may mosey on back to the busy kitchen and select a steak from the eight or so featured on the menu (or ribs, chicken or salmon). I trusted the cooks to grill a 1-pound Texas Ribeye ($15.95) for me and it was juicy and flavorful, and done just as I ordered it, with an addition of mesquite-grilled shrimp ($4.75 with the entree) on the side. My trusty sidekick's filet was very tender. The steaks came with a choice of spuds (including a baked sweet potato), or rice, a fresh bread and butter.

The Lone Star also offers combos of ribs and filet ( 1/2 rack and a 6-oz. filet - $15.95), or ribs and chicken ($12.95), as well as a chicken or beef kabab. Desserts include apple cobbler or a hot fudge brownie with ice cream ($2.95).

Happy trails.

by CNB