THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, June 12, 1994 TAG: 9406090190
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 20 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY PAUL SOUTH
DATELINE: 940612 LENGTH: NAG'S HEAD
``Yeah,'' I said. ``But I think Frasier would like it, too.''
{REST} Fans of the legendary television show ``Cheers'' will no doubt recognize the names of Norm and Dr. Frasier Crane, those lovable barflies who entertained us for all those Thursday nights. When it came to restaurants, Dr. Crane owned a five-star palate. Norm's favorite restaurant? The Hungry Heifer.
For Frasier, atmosphere and style are critical. For Norm . . . think about it. The Hungry Heifer. Norm wants food. Lots of it.
We've found a place on the Beach Road in Nag's Head that would delight Dr. Crane's demanding taste and Norm's desire for food in bulk. It scores big in both categories.
The name, ``It's Prime Only,'' might conjure up images of a head 'em up, move 'em out, serve 'em fast steak place. But nothing could be farther from the truth. Easy jazz provides a background for casual, yet elegant surroundings that welcome shorts and sports shirts as well as dresses, jackets and ties.
Leather sofas and chairs decorate the lounge area, in keeping with the comfortable feel of the place.
We began the meal with an appetizer, the marinated mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat ($6.95). The mushrooms were the largest we had ever seen - one measured at least two inches across - and the white wine and garlic marinade embraced the mushrooms and crabmeat without overpowering.
I also sampled the New England Clam Chowder ($3.25). The large bowl was brought steaming hot to the table, and had an abundance of clams and potatoes. While the Carolina-style clam chowder served in many area restaurants is excellent, it's nice to find a good bowl of the New England style.
For a salad, we chose the sliced tomatoes and onion ($2.95). An important reminder: It's Prime Only's serves its salads, and vegetables family style. Large bowls are brought to the table, and then let the feeding frenzy begin. One order of the salad was more than plenty for the three of us. The vegetables in the salad were fresh, but were a bit plain for our tastes. A nice marinade would have added to the flavor.
For vegetables, we ordered the loaded baked potato, mashed potatoes, and a regular baked potato. The two baked potatoes were good, but just a tad overcooked. However, the mashed potatoes were real, not the Betty Crocker-in-the-box variety. Many restaurants would take the shortcut, and use a mix, but not here. For some, that might seem like a small detail, but attention to the little things separate the good restaurants from the great ones.
We also enjoyed the fresh broccoli au gratin ($3.25). Again, the broccoli was fresh, and smothered in melted cheddar cheese. Our waitress brough an entire head of broccoli to our table, again more than enough for all of us. It had a good flavor, but was a bit undercooked.
Then it was on to the the main course. One of us selected the large prime rib ($16.95), another the New York strip ($16.25), and I had the large filet ($15.95). At ``It's Prime Only'' steaks get top billing, and rightfully so. Cooked in butter, and lightly marinated in garlic on request, the steaks are tender and flavorful. My filet was perfectly prepared. Many times when garlic is added to meat, chefs sometimes use a ``Secret Service'' technique. The garlic grabs the meat and wrestles it to the ground. Not so in this case. the quiet at the table, broken by the sound of knives at work and chewing teeth said more than enough about the wondrous taste of the meat. We shared a taste of each steak, and all were marvelous. Adding sauce to those steaks would be like trying to give hitting tips to Ted Williams. Don't even think about it.
According to James Soules, one of the three owners, the secret to preparation is keeping it simple.
``We use the best possible meat we can bring to the Outer Banks,'' said Soules. ``Also, the broiler we use, the heat is sealed inside the meat, and so the steaks cook from the inside. We use salt and pepper, and a little butter to give it some sizzle.''
A quick note: Steaks can be cooked without butter or garlic upon request. And for those diners who don't eat red meat, the menu includes blackened or broiled chicken ($13.95), fresh pasta of the day ($12.95), blackened or broiled tuna ($15.95), and salmon steak ($15.95). Entrees range afrom $12.95 to $18.95. There is also a limited children's menu featuring spaghetti and hamburgers. We suggest asking for an extra plate and sharing with your child.
I was the only one of our trio to try dessert. The Key Lime Pie ($3.25) was outstanding. Genuine Key Lime Pie made with real lime juice is yellow in color and not green, contrary to a widely-held belief. ``It's Prime Only'' pie passes muster with flying colors, and has a just-right mingling of sweet and tart flavor.
A dessert worth trying is the Bananas Foster ($4.25 per person). Bananas are cooked in liqueur, flambed, and then poured over vanilla ice cream. The dessert is prepared at your table, adding a splash of showmanship to the meal.
``All of our desserts are made from scratch,'' said Soules. ``We don't make anything from a box.''
After dinner, we had hot, rich and flavorful coffee, a great topper to an outstanding meal. Also, we enjoyed a bottle of cabernet sauvignon. The estblishment has a nice selection of wines. Prices vary.
``It's Prime Only'' opened Dec. 31, 1993. Despite the off-season start, the restaurant has built a loyal local following.
``We opened in the dead of winter,'' said Soules. ``That's not normal, but we don't do anything normal.''
For that, Outer Banks diners should be eternally grateful.
by CNB