THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: TUESDAY, June 21, 1994 TAG: 9406210055
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY DIANE TENNANT, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: 940621 LENGTH: Medium
Chippokes on a Monday morning is a near-perfect family spot, particularly for children intrigued by archaeology or enamored of the Flintstones. It has James River beaches, hiking trails, picnic grounds, a playground, museums, formal gardens and a plantation mansion. The free map says Chippokes is the oldest continually farmed property in the United States, since it began in 1619.
{REST} Chippokes Plantation State Park opened in 1969, but the river began work on it millions of years ago. While modern shells are plentiful, the fossils are the real attraction. Digging for them is prohibited, but digging is unnecessary, for they lie in plain view on the beach and in the shallow water.
Scallops 10 inches across lie alongside oysters, clams, barnacles, coral and the occasional dead carp. The fossils are easy to recognize by their size, and the visitor center at the top of the bluff has a fossil display as well, to help you figure them out.
Wading is not allowed, because the bottom is covered with shells, some of them pretty sharp. But stepping one foot up to the ankle is irresistible, particularly if a fine fossil is lying just out of reach.
Our end of the beach had trees that cast shade on the sand, perfect for taking a break.
The beach is only a short walk down a graveled path from the visitor center. The picnic area is at the top of the bluff, overlooking the James River. The highlight of our feast was watching two black snakes glide gracefully past. The kids got a kick out of watching one climb a tree, but the picnickers at the next table were not so delighted.
The history of Chippokes is recounted at the visitor center, which also has vending machines and restrooms. From the Algonquin Indian chief named Choupoke, to its present-day spelling, Chippokes has always been farmed. A small exhibit recounts famous owners of the past, including the Englishwoman Lucy Paradise, whose 18th century coach is on display in the historic area's Carriage House.
We would have counted our day well-spent with just the beach and the picnic, but my family took a spin through the historic area while we were there. We did not go through any of the buildings, because they were closed.
You pay extra to tour the Farm and Forestry Museum, featuring tools used by farmers and craftsmen over the centuries, and to tour the antebellum mansion. The swimming pool also costs extra.
Chippokes' parking fee is $1 on weekdays, $1.50 on weekends, but the sign at the park entrance says it is an honor system, payable at the visitor center or the swimming pool. We slid our dollar through the slot on the guardhouse, but the car behind us drove through without stopping.
Two paved trails can be hiked or bicycled. A third unpaved trail can be hiked. They range from half a mile to 1.3 miles long.
We basically had the park to ourselves that Monday, but it gets crowded during the annual Pork, Peanut and Pine Festival, scheduled this year for July 16 and 17. It celebrates Surry County's three major industries with food, music, crafts and exhibits.
During nonfestival days, the forestry portion of Chippokes' history is introduced with a mysterious sign near the park entrance: ``What's happening in the forest at Chippokes? Ask us.'' A handy brochure reveals the secret: ``There's a fungus among us.''
Root rot is destroying the 65-acre pine plantation, so the state Forestry Department is running pilot programs to convert the woods to deciduous trees and to introduce a second fungus to combat the root rot.
If you don't care to bring a picnic, the Surrey House restaurant is locally famous for ham and peanut specialties. It is a short distance west on Route 10, in the town of Surry.
A perfect family day trip was capped off by a ride on the James River ferry, 15 minutes from the park, which dropped us off in Jamestown to catch Interstate 64 home. It costs $4 a car, but the kids loved the observation deck, and the seagulls that followed us on the 20-minute ride.
Directions: Chippokes Plantation State Park is on Route 634. From Smithfield, take Route 10 West and follow the brown signs.
The museum and mansion are open for tours from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday during the summer. The mansion tour costs $2 for adults and $1 for children 6 to 12. The museum costs $1.25 for adults and $1 for children. The swimming pool costs $2.25 for adults and $1.75 for ages 3 to 12. For more information, call the park at 294-3625 or the museum at 294-3439.
by CNB