The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, July 3, 1994                   TAG: 9407010079
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F2   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   79 lines

DON'T MISS THE CHESAPEAKE BAY WINE CLASSIC

WINE FANCIERS in Hampton Roads should scribble a note on their calendars about the fourth annual Chesapeake Bay Wine Classic, Oct. 8 and 9.

Again this year the classic, which is the most enjoyable and educational wine affair in the region, will include an auction and informal tasting on Saturday afternoon at Bayville Farms in Virginia Beach and a formal tasting with lectures on Sunday afternoon. The location for the formal tasting this year will be the Norfolk Marriott and the chief speaker/presenter will be Seattle's Gene Ford, author of ``The French Paradox: Red Wine.''

An impressive array of food from Taste Unlimited will be served at the auction and hors d'oeuvres from the Marriott kitchen will be available during the formal tasting.

Among the auction lots already secured are cases of Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1982, Chateau Margaux 1982, Chateau Latour 1990 and Morey 1991 Le Montrachet.

Anyone with wine to donate to the auction should call event chairman Robert M. Stanton at 627-1961.

Tickets to the auction/informal tasting are $40 per person or $75 for table seating. Tickets for the formal tasting are $20.

For more information about the Classic, which benefits public broadcasting in Hampton Roads, call Liz Rountree at 489-9476. RANDOM NOTES

The Barton & Guestier 1993 Saint-Louis Chardonnay Macon ($7) is a lighter style chardonnay with crisp citrus flavor that is just right for summer drinking. Try it with grilled filets of turkey breast. This wine is widely available and often discounted in grocery stores.

Some of the simpler Virginia chardonnays, those not heavily oaked or allowed a malolactic fermentation, are light enough for outdoor dining during the summer. Recently I tasted the Afton Mountain 1993 Chardonnay Monticello ($10) and loved its crisp, slightly minerally flavor. Try it as an aperitif or with sea squab lightly floured and sauteed in butter.

Don't forget Virginia cabernets when you're planning summer dinner parties. Most Virginia reds are lighter than California versions of the same varietal and will not put your dinner guests to sleep. Montdomaine 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Monticello ($12) is one to search for. I tried a bottle of Montdomaine 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Monticello ($9 when I bought it a couple of years ago) and found it not the least bit faded. (Too many Virginia reds are almost undrinkable after five years of aging.)

The Monterey Vineyard 1992 Pinot Noir Monterey County ($8) is a well-made and inexpensive pinot to take to a picnic. I'd rather drink this red during the summer than many of the Beaujolais, which are often recommended for warm-weather drinking. The Monterey pinot matches well with grilled chicken and grilled meats. Napa Ridge also makes an inexpensive, but good value, California pinot.

Speaking of pinot, I opened Morgan 1991 Pinot Noir California (fruit from Monterey and Caneros) and was reminded of how fond I usually am of Morgan wines. This pinot had good cherry fruit with an edge of wet mushroom mustiness; it could have passed for a generous Cote de Beaune. I had purchased several bottles of it last year for $13 each. Morgan, a Monterey County winery, has had many successes with chardonnay and is one of the best producers anywhere of sauvignon blanc.

As I mentioned earlier, heavy reds can make us drowsy during the hot and humid months. So you might want to tuck this advice away for cooler times. Two red zinfandels in the market now, the Eagle Ridge Winery 1991 Zinfandel Amador County Fiddletown ($11) and Seghesio 1991 Zinfandel Alexander Valley Old Vines ($10), are excellent. The Eagle Ridge is a huge zin, weighing in at 15.7 percent alcohol, the kind of wine you're tempted to serve in a shot glass. But it's mighty flavorful and worth a try. The Seghesio is more elegant and much less alcoholic, but still a sturdy, plummy, briary wine. MEMO: Readers are invited to mail questions and comments about wine to: The

Humble Steward, Flavor section, The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star,

150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510. Comments about interesting

wines tasted recently will be appreciated. If possible, give complete

label information when naming wines, and list the vintage year. Please

include your phone number on each card or letter. by CNB