THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, July 21, 1994 TAG: 9407190068
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F9 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 98 lines
WHAT'S SO SPECIAL about a New England clam? It's a large longneck clam, belly and all, dusted in an unbleached flour blend before frying, says general manager Norman Cohn at the just-opened New England Clam and Lobster House in Virginia Beach.
Keeping company with the clams are giant lobsters (``I've got a couple of 11-pounders in the tank right now''), traditional lobster and clam rolls. And there are geographical detours through Florida for stone crab claws and California for Dungeness crab.
Chunks of lobster are seasoned, grilled and served on a warm, buttered bun; crispy whole clams overflow the clam roll.
Cohn, whose travels have included Australia as well as New England, promises that ``nothing is prepackaged.'' Our server, however, said the curly fries come frozen.
Grilled red potatoes were a fresh and tasty side dish. (They're not on the menu but are served on request.) Naturally thickened fisherman's chowder, New Zealand mussels, and real king crab legs, not snow crabs, are among the other features.
The new brick building is on the land side of Shore Drive, not far from some popular waterfront fish houses. The only water view here is a tiny strip of Chesapeake Bay through the space between the high rises across the street.
Cohn and owner Cindy Zinner plan for this casual eatery to be the first of a chain. It features an outdoor deck, picnic tables, and comfortable chairs inside. It offers home delivery and takeout. Call 496-5900. SOUL PATROL
If you're looking for soul food, look no further than the Virginia Beach-Norfolk city line.
At Davis Corner Shopping Ceneter, Newtown Road and Virginia Beach Boulevard, the Jemison family cooks fresh greens, sweet potatoes, ribs, fried catfish, fried chicken, chitterlings and more.
Furnished in kitchenette casual, Jemison's is glamorized by bright purple tablecloths and colorful flower sprays. And the family's no-nonsense cooking turns out ribs so tender the meat practically falls off the bone.
We stopped for a late lunch on a hot July day. The air conditioner barely cooled us, but we were comforted by regular refills of ice for our Southern-style, though overly sweetened, iced tea.
The chitterlings were fresh-tasting, best with a sprinkle of hot sauce, said my companion, who was raised on North Carolina soul food and approved the boiled version served at Jemison's. It was different from the fried version we had tasted elsewhere.
Collards were flavorful, catfish was plump within and crisply battered, and pork and beef ribs were tasty. We were disappointed, however, that the pig's feet and homemade sweet-potato pie were sold out. (And the television was irritatingly loud.)
Other menu options were fried chicken, tuna or chicken salad, and pork chops. Standard breakfasts start at $1.99, lunches range from $1.60 to $4.50, and dinners with 2 vegetables and cornbread or roll cost $4.50 to $7.95. For takeout and delivery, call 461-8975. NEW MOON
The Blue Moon Cafe will rise soon, at the corner of Holly Road and 32nd Street in Virginia Beach. This site has been home to several restaurants, including Wesley's, Menus and, most recently, Boswell's. Josh Berz, who once waited tables at Wesley's, is new owner. He's extended the bar around the corner to the hall, where diners previously were served. The mood will be casual, Berz says. The space will be lighter, as will the menu, which will include sandwiches, salads, pastas, grilled meats and seafoods for lunch and dinner. Call 437-8230. QUICK BITES
Just over a year ago, Rudee's on the Inlet expanded its decks for more outdoor dining. Now it's expanded its menu for summer. Pasta with Alfredo sauce also has shrimp, scallops, and tuna; a broiled platter blends lobster, scallops, and shrimp with lump crab. Nightly specials and Sunday brunches are still available year-round. Call 425-1777. . . . Uncle Louie knows you like fresh bread. The restaurant has added Baker's Crust boules and batards to its offerings. Baked daily at Hilltop North Shopping Center in Virginia Beach, these luscious loaves come to the Wards Corner deli in straightforward fat-free French versions and fancier renditions such as tomato-basil, fruit-nut, and our favorite, multigrain. Cry uncle: Call 480-1225. . . . When the night is too hot for cooking in, busy Ghent dwellers can stop in at Peter's Tentop on the way home from work. Peter and Chris Pittman prepare fancy sandwiches, salads and dinners to go, at 806 Harrington Ave., off Colley near 21st Street. Fat-free vegetarian specialties and lush chicken dishes with vegetables are typical meals; sandwiches include the clever ``ZLT,'' with zucchini instead of bacon. A triple-layer turkey club has slices of apple on apple walnut bread; the minimarket area has fresh vegetables, herbs, and breads. . . . Another cool spot for hot nights is the patio at Piranha: An Eating Frenzy, 8180 Shore Drive in Norfolk. There's live island music from 8 to 11:30 Fridays and Saturdays. New chef John Salmon, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, is adding more fun foods to the menu, says owner Monroe Duncan. Consider the Cajun Cauldron of crabs, mussels, crawfish, clams, shrimp and chicken in court bouillon with potatoes, corn-on-the-cob and French bread ($9.95). by CNB