The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, July 21, 1994                TAG: 9407210039
SECTION: DAILY BREAK              PAGE: E3   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY MONIQUE WILLIAMS, SPECIAL TO THE DAILY BREAK 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   74 lines

THE WEST IS BACK IN MOVIES, STYLE

YOU'VE SEEN THIS picture before: John Wayne charges into a deserted town leading the cavalry. He steps into an empty street to face a strong, silent marshall - Gary Cooper, Henry Fonda, James Stewart.

Now, fast forward to 1994. The heroes are Mel Gibson in ``Maverick'' or Kevin Costner in ``Wyatt Earp.''

The stories have been told over and over again, but the fascination with the West remains as alive today as it did 100 years ago.

Long ago, Hollywood discovered the hold the West exerts on the American psyche, and likewise, fashion will take its cues from Hollywood.

The success of movies such as ``Dances with Wolves'' and ``Unforgiven'' perpetuates Hollywood's romantic image of the West. Never mind that in the real West, being a pioneer meant living in mud houses in the prairie and doing backbreaking work.

``People associate the West as a period that was heroic,'' says James Kelly, director of museum programs at the Virginia Historical Society in Richmond.

``It's a period that was formative in our character, and it transformed American history,'' he adds.

And once again, a slew of Western movies this summer has brought back a Western craze not seen since Debra Winger rode the mechanical bull in ``Urban Cowboy.''

``Maverick,'' ``Wyatt Earp,'' ``The Quick and the Dead'' and the all-female flicks ``Bad Girls'' and ``Even Cowgirls Get the Blues'' has resurrected prairie dresses, petticoats and boots.

Beyond the lasting and enduring beauty of Western wear, its appeal lies in symbolism. It is, after all, the only real American wear and for many, the West isn't just a flat, wide place that is sparsely populated. It is a state of mind, a place in their hearts.

Some manufacturers have made this state of mind part of their advertising campaign. Both Guess and Ralph Lauren make images of the West a staple of their ad campaigns.

And we can't get enough of the scrolling, piping, trimming, fringes, tassels, feathers, blanket stitch, Navajo blanket prints - all done in endless variations on the theme.

``Good Western wear is timeless,'' says Deborah Carr, owner of the Cage in Virginia Beach. ``It is something that will never go away.

``I have a belt with conchas that I have been wearing for years and years,'' she adds.

In Hampton Roads, where the weather and the area's casual dress code allow such a dress-down, Western wear can be worn year-round. Angelenos, however, like to mix it up. Cowboy boots are mixed with tailored pants, fringe jackets with long, flowing skirts and jeans are worn with Navajo blanket jackets.

Uschi Butler, an interior designer and owner of Uschi Designs in Virginia Beach has been collecting Indian art for 18 years.

``Western wear and Native American dresswear is simple,'' she says. ``What dresses it up is the jewelry.''

Butler buys authentic handmade jewelry from Navajos and Zunis, which she wears with her everyday clothes. She adds silver toe pieces to her colorful boots and wears moccasins when she visits reservations.

The secret to wearing Western or Native-American wear tastefully is to tone it down. Head-to-toe Western tends to look costumey.

``Just one piece at the time,'' says Carr. Wear black jeans with a great belt with metals and castings or add a beautiful band on a hat, she says.

``There is a lot of art in Western wear,'' adds Carr. The accessories you did, she says, don't have to be simple. ``They can be unusual and ornate and still be beautiful.'' ILLUSTRATION: Photo

The secret to wearing Western wear is to tone it down. Head-to-toe

Western looks costumey.

by CNB