THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 14, 1994 TAG: 9408110186
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 18 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY MARGARET TALEV, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: KILL DEVIL HILLS LENGTH: Long : 102 lines
VEGETARIANS, VEGANS and meat-eating diners who crave Mexican cuisine but hate that grab-the-antacid feeling, take note: Your search on the Outer Banks may be through.
I've never gone in much for strip-mall dining. Call me a snob, but there's something less than extravagant about eating next door to a laundromat, hair salon or those other shops that usually fill outdoor malls.
People in search of a truly fresh and uplifting meal will often ignore restaurants in these locations.
Don't ignore The Coastal Cactus. It's in a strip mall, but this family-run operation, which specializes in Southwestern cuisine, is first-rate.
Southwestern cuisine, which is modeled after foods prepared in Arizona, New Mexico and nearby Mexican regions, differs from Mexican food because ``it's more flavorful than hot,'' said chef Deby Curcio.
Her menu features dishes cooked with cumin, cardamom, turmeric and fresh cilantro. She makes everything from scratch - salsa, guacamole, tomato base, stock for rice and desserts.
Several meatless dishes are available. And the strictest vegetarians - those who avoid dairy products as well - can call ahead and ask her to prepare special meals.
For lunch, a friend and I tried the Hot Poppers ($4.95), Coastal Nachos ($4.95) and Tequila-Lime Shrimp ($9.95). For dessert, we split one order of Coastal Coconut Flan ($1.95).
The Hot Poppers - jalapenos stuffed with Cheddar cheese, breaded and fried, and served with creamy avocado dip - were neat and crisp. We were able to combine a half-order of these with a half-order of the daily special - red peppers prepared similarly but stuffed with cream cheese. The red peppers were sweet and spicy. The jalapenos were tangy.
Nachos here are superb. Ours arrived at the table crisp and remained that way longer than nachos often do. Melted Cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses, tomato, green onions and jalapenos were distributed evenly throughout the platter, so that some chips were not overloaded and others barren. Also, unlike conventional nachos, these were not weighed down with crusty chili or gooey chunks of salsa.
Nachos can be ordered simply with fresh vegetables ($3.50), or with beef, beans or chicken added. The chicken, pulled and stewed in tomato base, was sweet and tender.
Tequila-Lime Shrimp - cooked with garlic, lime juice, cilantro and tequila and served over yellow rice - was light and mild, a fine choice for diners who don't want to be loaded down with cheese, beans or tortillas. The dish could use a bit more sauce, but I substituted with a spoonful of fresh salsa puree.
The flan is heavier than some, but portions are small. The coconut flavor is subtle, and the caramel pretty and smooth tasting.
I liked Coastal Cactus' margarita, which was made with limeade. This gave it a juicy taste and didn't burn my throat as many sour mixes do.
Presentation on all of our dishes was lovely.
The restaurant, with its coral and bluish-green walls and sponge-painted wall borders, is cute. The atmosphere is casual and cheery, and smokers and non-smokers have separate dining rooms.
Lunch and dinner menus are the same, but some specials are only available in the evening.
Servers are friendly, helpful and happy to answer questions about any of the dishes and ingredients. A courteous table visit is made by the owners.
Owners Dan Goodwin and Jim Curcio (Deby's husband) opened The Coastal Cactus in October 1993.
Goodwin, his wife, Joanne, and the Curcios had been vacationing on the Outer Banks for several years. They decided to start a restaurant to ``try and beat the city life,'' said Goodwin, a Northern Virginia real estate lawyer.
The Curcios, both lighting consultants, have a relative who runs a Southwestern restaurant in Virginia. From him, Goodwin and Jim Curcio learned how to run a restaurant. Deby studied cooking under him, until she felt ready to create on her own.
For new restaurateurs, they've done remarkably well. Their competition might want to make a run for the border. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Coastal Cactus cook Deby Curcio, center, shows off her specialty
dish, while co-owners Jim Curcio, left, and Dan Goodwin dish up
their favorite menu items at the restaurant that specializes in
Southwestern cuisine.
THE COASTAL CACTUS
Where: Seagate North Shopping Center, Milepost 5 1/2, Kill Devil
Hills
Phone: (919) 441-6600
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Prices: Entrees $4.95 to $9.95
Children's menu: Six offerings, $1.75 to $2.95
Smoking: In separate dining room
Drinks: Sodas, juices, coffee, tea, iced tea, domestic beers,
nine Mexican beers, sangria, wine by the glass.
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, Diners, Discover
Takeout: All items available
Reservations: Accepted but not necessary
Accessibility: Handicapped accessible
by CNB