THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 21, 1994 TAG: 9408190086
SECTION: HOME PAGE: G2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: GARDENING
SOURCE: ROBERT STIFFLER
LENGTH: Medium: 96 lines
Please advise how to get a cutting to root, so it will bloom after being planted in the ground. I have several cuttings that I have put in water. They are now on the windowsill. Is there another method?
Mrs. A. Boutalis, Norfolk
There are many ways to propagate, depending upon what you want to root. I'm assuming yours are house plants. Many of them will root in water, but the roots formed in water are normally white and different from the roots a plant needs in soil. After placing such a rooted plant in soil, keep in shade and thoroughly watered for several weeks.
Azaleas, camellias and many others can be rooted by taking cuttings of new growth in spring. It's late now but can still be done. Dip the cutting in Rootone and place in a rooting mix of peat moss, sand and perlite. Wet down and cover with plastic, and in a few weeks, your cuttings should be rooted. Reprints on simple ways to propagate are being sent you. Several good books tell how to propagate any plant. One of the best is ``Secrets of Plant Propagation'' by Lewis Hill (Garden Way Publishing, $20 hardback). Call 1 (800) 827-8673.
Kindly send me a formula for removing tree stumps.
Kermit J. Rodgers, Cheriton
The best formula is to have an arborist grind out the stump. That can be costly, but to use any other method requires two to three years. Marc Cathey, on his call-in radio show, regularly recommends sprinkling the top of the stump with powdered milk. Hampton Roads Agricultural Research Center experts say to drill large holes in the stump and fill the holes with ammonium nitrate fertilizer. Any lawn fertilizer (do not use any containing a pesticide) can be substituted. The stump will gradually rot away.
My tomatoes have grown very well but several have ripened with rot at the bottom. I'm now starting to harvest good ones but wonder how to avoid any further ``bottom rot.''
Art Dolson, Virginia Beach
Your letter was written before my July 31 column on the subject appeared, so your question may have been answered. Briefly, this fall you need to add calcium to the area where you grow tomatoes. Next spring, mulch all your tomatoes and keep them watered during dry spells. Blossom-end rot is caused by stress. But usually, after the first few tomatoes are picked, the rest will be perfect.
Some time ago you commented on the datura plant. Since then I have acquired one. Notably lacking in foresight, I neglected to clip your comments about this plant and am not sure just how to treat it or what to expect from it. I will appreciate your sending me a copy of your comments or providing other informa-tion about the plant.
Gael Daugherty, Virginia Beach
Datura is a member of the nightshade family, mostly from South America. The plants have trumpet-shaped flowers, and the foliage has an unpleasant odor when crushed. They can be grown outdoors in full sun in frost-free regions or indoors as coarse house plants. They like plenty of moisture. Propagate by seeds or cuttings.
I assume you have the Datura that is often called moon flower. It grows up to 3 feet tall with white fragrant flowers. It will die down when frost arrives, but usually reseeds and comes up without your planting it again. Some portions of most Datura are poisonous, so be careful.
Since my electrical contractor nephew got this hint from a homeowner, I'm not able to give credit. Here it is: Hang red Christmas tree ornaments on your tomato plants early in the season. The birds will peck these and be discouraged from attacking the real things later on.
Here's my problem: The first flush of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers always comes in great, but subsequent yields often have tiny pinholes and worms. When and with what should I spray? Is it possible those white moth types flitting around are the culprits? I really enjoy your columns and hate to think about the day of your second retirement. That may come before I bronze my trowel!
Bob Daniel, Norfolk
The Christmas tree ornament idea is a new one to me. If others have tried it, please write and let us know if it works. This time of year, birds really peck away at tomatoes.
As for your question, much of the problem you describe is the work of army worms. They eat tomatoes in late summer, often burrowing a hole in around the stem. Green stink bugs also suck sap from fruit, causing it to be deformed. They hide in weedy areas, so eliminate nearby weeds to give them fewer places to hide. Thrips also work on the plants, which can cause deformed fruit.
Sevin is the recommended chemical spray, because it can be used often and up to five days before picking tomatoes. The organic treatment is pyrethrin or pyrethrin/rotenone. Read and follow label directions.
The white moths flitting around are cabbage moths, and they don't bother tomatoes.
Since you mentioned retirement, watch for my book that will include the best of 20 years of writing garden advice in The Virginian-Pilot. If everything goes well, it will be out late this fall. MEMO: Questions about home repair problems should be addressed to Bernard
Gladstone, care of The New York Times Syndication Sales Corp., 130 Fifth
Ave., New York, N.Y. 10011. Questions of general interest will be
answered in this column. by CNB