THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 18, 1994 TAG: 9409150169
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 10 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY JOHN HARPER
CORRESPONDENT
LENGTH: Medium: 88 lines
NOT TOO many Bill Reynoldses left.
Bill Reynolds is a barber. Not a hair sylist, a barber. He's been cutting hair in a small shop in downtown Manteo since 1958. By his estimation, that's 275,001 heads he's had a pleasure to know.
Think about the possibilities - 275,001 conversations. A man learns a lot by listening; and Bill Reynolds knows a lot about a lot of things, including the history of downtown Manteo.
That's why I'm here. To learn more about this waterfront village on Roanoke Island.
I've walked Budleigh and Sir Walter Raleigh Streets hundreds of times, always wondering what it was like here 40 years ago. Today, Bill Reynolds offers me a course in Downtown Manteo 101.
Reynolds' shop is in the Essex Square building on Sir Walter Raleigh Street, with neighbors Manteo Booksellers and My Secret Garden. The barbershop, on the south end of the building, is on a brick walkway that connects Budleigh and Sir Walter Raleigh streets.
Reynolds finishes a haircut as I take a seat in one of his eight leather chairs, hoping to pick up a lesson between customers. He's now finishing a cut on a young woman's hair and asks her if he's taken off enough.
``I can also glue it back if it's too much,'' says Reynolds. The woman smiles and hands the barber $6.50. Only teacher and student remain.
What was it like in downtown Manteo in 1958, I ask Reynolds.
Reynolds says Ralph Swain's grocery store was across the street. And there was a Ben Franklin and two gas stations. The barbershop was in the Hotel Raleigh, which is now the Dare County Administration Building. It was a two-person barbershop then, run by Tom Russell and Bill.
``It was quiet then, and you had to get your groceries and gas before the sun went down because the stores closed after dark.''
Reynolds' next customer is a regular at the barbershop. He's leaving the area and wants to get a haircut before he goes. The man explains that his wife has left him and he is going to Louisiana to get a fresh start. A sympathetic ear is part of Reynolds' service.
``All of life is part of God's kingdom,'' Reynolds says with a reassuring handshake. The man leaves the shop with more than a haircut.
The shop is empty again. Reynolds says the town has grown since 1958.
``There was a time when you knew everybody and his dog.''
One of the major changes in downtown Manteo is the Waterfront complex. The three-story collection of shops, restaurants and condominiums fronts Shallowbag Bay. Its modern structure is in sharp contrast to the turn-of-the-century houses and buildings that line Budleigh and Sir Walter Raleigh streets.
``I think it's good. When it first opened in 1986, it took a little getting used to. But now it fits.''
Reynolds points out some of the other downtown businesses. The Pioneer Theatre on Budleigh Street is one of the oldest family-owned theaters in the United States. The theater, owned by the Creef family, shows only family films, and the admission price is $3. Popcorn and drinks are 50 cents.
Fearing's department store started business 40 years ago. The Pig 'n Phoenix sandwich shop now is the focus of the store. Woody Fearing was an actor in ``The Lost Colony,'' and pictures of those days hang on every wall.
The Duchess of Dare restaurant is around the corner from Reynolds' shop. More often than not, there is a round-table discussion of politics at breakfast in the Duchess. Locals mingle with politicians discussing the good old days.
It's 5 p.m. and Reynolds is ready to close shop. What about some of the famous heads of the Outer Banks? Ever cut Andy Griffith's hair?
``Once, about 25 years ago.''
How is his hair?
``Pretty good, although there's a couple of rough spots,'' says Reynolds.
That's a surprise to me. It looks so well-coiffed on ``Matlock'' every week.
Have you cut Manteo native and President Pro Tem of the North Carolina Senate, Marc Basnight's hair?
``I cut his hair when he was 12. He'd bring his cousin with him. One day, his cousin wanted to spend his haircut money on a toy. Marc reasoned with him, and the cousin got the haircut. Marc was diplomatic even then.''
Reynolds hangs the ``closed'' sign on the door. I've learned a lot about Manteo and its people today. It's my longest stay ever in a barbershop. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Lisa and Neal Mease of Ephrata, Pa., stroll with their 2-year-old
daughter Alicia on the Manteo waterfront.
by CNB