The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, September 25, 1994             TAG: 9409230087
SECTION: DAILY BREAK              PAGE: E6   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: TRAVEL-WISE
SOURCE: STEPHEN HARRIMAN
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   74 lines

POOR MAN'S CHARLES KURALT TRAVELS HEARTLAND HIGHWAYS

ANOTHER EDITION of Heartland Highways, a quarterly tabloid of travel, arrived the other day. It's a funky panorama of road strangeness, as presented by Loren Eyrich, a portly, balding Floridian reporting from his ancient recreational vehicle named Cow (``Condo-on-Wheels''). It comes complete with some pretty bad photos - the sort many of us bring back from our own travels.

What Eyrich does is drive down the highway, see something that's interesting to him, then report on his findings with a kind of floating-downstream-of-consciousness style that sweeps you along through places like the Ain't You Et Yet Cafe and I Ain't Here Saloon. He taste-tests goat milk fudge and buffalo meat burgers, talks with people who collect outhouses, attends smelly-boot competitions and ugly cat contests.

He's a sort of poor man's Charles Kuralt.

You get the idea that Eyrich is enjoying life more than the rest of us. This is the way he puts it: ``Skeeter Davis on the radio, and bugs on my windshield . . . like I died and went to Heaven.'' Eight bucks buys four issues. That's cheap. Write Eyrich at Box 23518, Fort Lauderdale, Fla. 33307-3518. GOLF IN SCOTLAND

Go where the greens are really green on a weeklong golfing trip to Scotland that leaves any Tuesday or Thursday during October and November. The trip combines three nights in St. Andrews and three nights in the Highlands golfing town of Nairn.

Participants are guaranteed starting times on the courses at Carnoustie, two St. Andrews courses, Nairn's championship course and at Royal Dornoch.

Cost: $1,195 per person, double occupancy, including round-trip air fare from New York, bed and breakfast accommodations, car rental, greens fees and local taxes. Not included: most meals. Contact: Value Golf Vacations, 260 5th Ave. New York, N.Y. 10001-6408; phone (800) 786-7634. CONFIDENCE BUILDER

InnerQuest, a tour group specializing in unique men-only and women-only trips designed to foster self-confidence and self-growth, offers several programs through November. For men, a ``King's Heart Quest'' trip, Oct. 26-30, goes to the Colorado River/Black Canyon Hot Springs for canoeing and relaxing in the hot springs, sauna caves and waterfalls of the area. Price is $750 per person, plus airfare, for the five-day trip. For women, a ``Running Wild With Wolves'' trip, Oct. 22-23, spent camping in the mountains of Southern California. Price is $250 per person, plus airfare. Info: (213) 874-1005. BEWITCHING WEAR

Spotted in Salem, Mass., scene of the witchcraft hysteria of 1692, a T-shirt reading: ``Life's a Witch and Then You Fly.'' HOCUS-POCUS

A six-day trip to the Yucatan Peninsula to experience the rituals and festivities of the Day of the Dead leaves Oct. 29 from Houston. In rituals predating the Aztec, the revelers welcome the souls of the dead who ``return'' for a few hours to visit friends and family. The trip will include a day exploring the Mayan ruins of Uxmal and the ruins of the Puuc route. Another day is spent at the beach. Cost: $699 per person, double occupancy, including air fare to Merida from Houston, hotels, ground transportation, bilingual guides, entrance fees and two lunches. Not included: air fare to Houston and most meals. Info: Remarkable Journeys, P.O. Box 31855, Houston, Texas 77231-1855; phone (800) 856-1993. MEMO: Travel-wise is compiled from wire-service reports, news releases, trade

journals, books, magazines and the deepest recesses of the writer's

mind. Send comments and questions to Travel-wise, The

Virginian-Pilot/The Ledger-Star, P.O. Box 449, Norfolk, Va. 23501-0449. by CNB