THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 9, 1994 TAG: 9410060124
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F3 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 95 lines
LIKE THE neighboring ocean that inspired its name, the Blue Water Cafe always seems to be changing.
Several talented chefs have come and gone; founding manager Mia Russell left a few months ago.
Now, Robert Murphy, who has cooked in this kitchen since early spring, has developed an interesting menu reflecting the several styles that preceded him, plus touches of his own.
A Virginia Beach native trained at the Culinary Institute of America, Murphy has been influenced by stints at restaurants in the southwest and southern Florida and by travels to the Caribbean, Latin America and Ireland. One result is Killian's Red beer-battered shrimp with orange chipotle sauce.
Nightly specials allow Murphy to be spontaneous with local ingredients.
The Oceanfront setting is irresistible, and the cozy interior invites quiet evenings. For alfresco dining on fine days and nights, try the large covered patio. We've always found the staff friendly and conscientious.
Many dishes worthy of both praise and a reprise have been served on our several visits over the past year. A few dishes have been stellar. For example, the changing pate was a delicately seasoned fluffy fish blend on one night and a more robust chicken terrine on another. Goat cheese and mushroom ragout was a splendid topping for a polenta that would have been more enjoyable if browned a bit. Well-browned but so thick it overpowered the bivalves within was the coating of cornmeal and walnuts for an oyster appetizer.
Salads usually are crisp and fresh. Perfect for autumn is a delicious new roasted eggplant and tomato bisque, with a fine balance of the two vegetables. Black-bean soup also has been added to the menu.
Main dishes include a dozen items plus some chalkboard specials. A hefty lamb shank with ``onion marmalade'' should satisfy meat-eaters; softly cooked onions were a comforting complement. Grilled tuna with a splendid red-pepper sauce was slightly overcooked; a salmon special with pineapple curry brought a fine piece of fish.
Pasta came topped with a tasty blend of andouille sausage and duck (but not nearly enough of the latter). Untried entrees include penne pasta with blue cheese and marinara sauce, tournedos of beef encrusted with goat cheese, crabcakes with homemade tartar sauce, and always a fresh vegetarian dish.
For an adult dessert, the fallen bittersweet chocolate souffle in a pool of white chocolate cream is hard to surpass, inviting late-night visits for dessert and coffee. Creamy coconut cake is true comfort food.
Murphy says almond apple upside down cake will be a menu regular, though it wasn't available on our last visit. What was available, however, was outstanding blueberry pie made from fresh local berries in an excellent crust.
Five early-bird specials for $9.95, available from 5 to 7 p.m., are called ``Sunsets Over Blue Water.'' Complementing the main menu of wines averaging $18 is the moderately priced ``12 for 12'' list of a dozen bottles for a dozen dollars each, also available at $3.75 a glass.
Serving three meals a day, the Blue Water Cafe is a pleasant venue for breakfast and lunch with an ocean view. Fresh fruit salad with coconut lime sauce, French toast stuffed with fruits and nuts, and fresh vegetable sandwiches with avocado-garlic dressing are among the daytime additions.
The Blue Water continues to evolve, and under the guidance of Murphy and Kolano may have found a winning combination. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of four,
unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for
the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Photo
ROY A. BAHLS
The Blue Water Cafe's Oceanfront setting is irresistible, and the
cozy interior invites quiet evenings. For alfresco dining on fine
days and nights, try the large covered patio.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Blue Water Cafe
3301 Atlantic Ave., Four Sails Resort, Virginia Beach.
491-0188
Cuisine: Eclectic new American with local and southwestern
influences.
Atmosphere: Delightful Oceanfront cafe with large covered patio;
inside, bathed with light by day, subdued in the evening. Park for
free in the lot around the corner on Pacific and 32nd.
Prices: Breakfast and lunch from $3 to $7; dinner starters,
soups, and salads from $2.25 to $7.95; main dishes from $10.95 to
$16.50 (averaging $13); desserts $3.95; children's menu available.
Hours: Breakfast from 7 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; lunch from 11:30 a.m.
to 4 p.m.; dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. daily.
Reservations: Recommended for dinner and large parties.
Smoking: Outdoors only, weather permitting; otherwise, about 10
percent of indoor seating.
by CNB