The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, October 9, 1994                TAG: 9410070329
SECTION: SUFFOLK SUN              PAGE: 18   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY CAROLE O'KEEFFE, CORRESPONDENT 
DATELINE: SUFFOLK                            LENGTH: Medium:   89 lines

SUFFOLK STATION ARRIVES AT DOWNTOWN SITE COMFORT, GOOD FOOD IS GREEN'S GOAL AT HER NEW RESTAURANT ON W. WASHINGTON ST.

JUDITH B. GREEN decided about a year ago she would open her own restaurant but she couldn't come up with a name.

So she called on her experience as a history buff, researched the city's past and decided that since railroads were a large reason for the ``blossoming'' of Suffolk, she would call her restaurant Suffolk Station.

She had wanted to locate in one of the city's several railroad stations but found they were in use or otherwise unavailable.

The Portsmouth-based New York Deli had planned to open in a spot formerly occupied by several restaurants at various times, including the Crystal, Beth's, E-Beth's, the Times and Daddy Ruth's. New York Deli finally decided against the 116 W. Washington St. location and the owners, knowing Green was seeking a spot, contacted her.

She signed the lease in August and opened Sept. 15.

She said she decided to open her own business because she was tired of ``working for everybody else.''

While Green, 47, has never owned a business before, she is not new to restaurant work. She began as a waitress 25 years ago.

``In that time, I have waitressed, washed dishes and scrubbed floors. I have been cooking for 20 years.''

Green decided early on that she ``liked cooking a whole lot better than working out here on the floor.''

She will continue as one of the four Suffolk Station cooks.

Customers have followed her and her cooking to such places as the Bar-B-Que Barn in Deep Creek and the Cradock Luncheonette in Portsmouth.

Green says that local residents have helped her get established in Suffolk by touting her cooking skills.

``They know what I am capable of and they have been spreading the word. They have known me for years,'' Green said.

She lives in Chesapeake but chose Suffolk as a restaurant site because she likes the small-town atmosphere.

``I visited Suffolk five years ago and it reminded me of a small town I fell in love with in West Virginia, called Northfork.''

Northfork was mining country and Suffolk agricultural but there were other similarities, so Green selected Suffolk.

``The people are the same,'' she said.

In addition, according to Green, ``Suffolk needs something downtown to cater to the working people.''

She hasn't done much to the interior. ``Just cosmetic changes,'' Green said. Eventually, though, she plans to redecorate.

For now, she is accumulating items from times past to lend a nostalgic ambience to her establishment.

For example, she will feature pictures of old businesses, like Ye Ole Pastry Shop when it was on Saratoga Street. It recently closed its Washington Street location.

A huge rolling pin, in use until the closing, will be refinished and used as a decorative item in Suffolk Station.

``When I was growing up and went to my grandmother's house, nothing matched,'' Green recalled. ``Nothing matches in my restaurant either. The dishes don't match. The cups don't match. I was very comfortable in my grandmother's house. And I want people to be comfortable here.''

For the time being, Suffolk Station is open for breakfast and lunch. The demand hasn't shown itself for dinner, Green said, but she will serve early dinners before 6 p.m. daily.

She features an early bird breakfast of coffee and Danish for those on the run.

Regular opening time is 8 a.m. A breakfast special costs $2.25 and includes two eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, ham or sausage, toast or homemade biscuits, coffee or tea.

The lunch special varies from day to day, although Wednesdays usually feature an Italian dish and Fridays are for fish, shrimp or barbecue dishes. The mid-day special costs $3.25.

Green prides herself in using fresh ingredients she and her staff prepare on-site, like the hand-shaved ribeye steak they serve in the N.Y.-Philly cheese and steak sub.

``We take the time and effort because it keeps costs down and tastes better,'' she said.

Her daughter, Angela Clark, bakes the cakes and many of the other desserts on the menu. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by MICHAEL KESTNER

Judith B. Green is the owner - and one of four cooks - at Suffolk

Station. The name she chose for her restaurant reflects the

importance of railroads in Suffolk's development.

by CNB