The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, October 9, 1994                TAG: 9410110453
SECTION: HOME                     PAGE: G1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY ROBERT STIFFLER, GARDEN COLUMNIST 
                                             LENGTH: Long  :  199 lines

TRUNK SPACE IT'S TIME TO BRANCH OUT AND INTRODUCE A FEW NEW TREES TO YOUR YARD

From now to Dec. 15 is the best time of year to put down roots - tree roots, that is - but it pays to do some planning before you plant.

Local garden centers are well-stocked with trees at this time of year and will plant them for you for a fee; or you can plant them yourself. Bare-root trees, usually available only from mail-order nurseries, can be planted in late fall or early spring.

The most common mistake arborists see is the wrong tree in the wrong place, so it's important to select the proper plant, according to the International Society of Arboriculture, a 7,500 member not-for-profit association of professional arborists.

``First choose the site, then determine what types of trees will grow best in that site,'' says Roger Funk, vice president of The Davey Tree Expert Co. of Kent, Ohio.

Make sure the tree will survive in southeast Virginia or northeast North Carolina. Most found in local nurseries fit that requirement.

Before visiting a nursery, examine your planting site. Check the amount of sunlight and shade. Some species won't tolerate certain light conditions.

Soil type also is important. Most soils in this area are acidic. Plants that like that kind of soil include azaleas, dogwood, oak, rhododendron and yew.

Plants that prefer alkaline or

sweet soils include honey locust, Kentucky coffee tree and mock orange. Many other varieties are not particular.

Another key factor is drainage. Normal drainage occurs when water drains from a planting hole at a rate of one inch per hour.

One of the most important things to consider is the purpose of the tree. Will it provide shade or are you more interested in adding color?

Investing in mature trees can be costly, so it's wise to know what will thrive. Expect to pay at least $75 for a tree 8 feet or more in height. Smaller trees can be purchased for about $25. BEST BETS

Several local experts offered recommendations for trees to plant in this area.

Virginia Tech horticulture specialist Bonnie Appleton, who works at the Hampton Roads Research Center, prefers:

Crape myrtle, for its excellent summer bloom.

Lace bark elm, a wonderful overall tree, especially for its beautiful bark in winter. It's very disease resistant.

River birch, a tough tree for this area, with excellent bark.

Japanese Cryptomeria, a favorite evergreen.

``Because Leyland Cypress is so susceptible to bagworm infestations, it has lost favor with many,'' Appleton adds.

Roger Huff, arborist for the city of Virginia Beach, agrees on the choice of crape myrtle, especially the new mildew-resistant introductions such as dark pink Tuskegee, light lavender Muskogee or white Natchez.

He also recommends:

Japanese Zelkova, especially the Green Bar and Village Green varieties.

Golden Rain tree, a small but showy ornamental tree.

Oaks, including the willow oak, water oak and pin oak, all fast-growing shade trees. Scarlet oak also has performed well here.

A few of my favorites not mentioned by the experts are:

Japanese red maple, a colorful highlight in a lawn or garden. It's sometimes hard to grow, because it needs excellent drainage. A slow grower, it requires little pruning.

Redbud, hard to beat for spring beauty in a woodsy setting.

Vitex, a purple summer-blooming tree that's tough and easy to grow.

Prunus mume, a Japanese blooming apricot with a wonderful winter bloom.

Stewartia or pseudocamellia, a slow-growing native tree with wonderful camellia-like blooms in July.

Japanese persimmon, a small tree with yellow fall foliage and beautiful, large edible fruit.

If, after all the experts' advice, you still insist on planting Bradford pear trees, be sure to buy one of the tall slim varieties, such as Capital. The standard variety is over-planted in this area and blows apart in windstorms. HOW TO PLANT

Once the proper tree is selected, it's time to plant. The ISA suggests the following steps:

Test the soil to ensure it drains well. Dig a hole and fill it with water. After it drains, fill it again. If the water is gone within 24 hours, the soil is considered well drained.

Dig a hole large enough for the tree. The hole should be 2 feet wider than the root ball, and the tree should be set as deeply as it was in the nursery. If the tree is balled and covered with burlap, the top of the root ball should be even with the surface. Planting too deep is worse than too shallow.

Make a soil mound in the center of the hole and place the tree on the mound. Spread the roots if they are showing but don't twist them. Cut away any burlap covering, being careful not to cut the roots.

After planting, thoroughly water the tree.

Wrap the trunk and stake the tree if needed. Never stake the trunk so tightly that it doesn't have room to sway. That will weaken the tree's natural defense system. Only if necessary, prune to achieve desired spacing and tree shape.

Apply 3 inches of mulch around the tree and water periodically (usually every other day if there is no rain) to keep the soil moist 4 inches down.

Do not fertilize when planting but, thereafter, apply a tree fertilizer annually. Late fall, after leaves drop, is best. Fertilize evergreens in late winter.

As the tree grows, prune or trim regularly to control shape and to keep branches from harming surrounding structures or people. The best time to prune is from winter to early spring. Prune sparingly, because without enough leaves, a tree cannot gather and process adequate sunlight. ILLUSTRATION: Color photos

Experts recommend the following trees: Blue Atlas cedar (1), Goden

Rain tree (3), redbud (5) and Japanese red maple (6). For diehard

Bradford pear fans, they suggest the Capital variety (2) over the

traditional Bradford (4).

Graphics

TEST YOUR TREE KNOWLEDGE

How much do you really know about trees? Answer true or false to

the questions below and see how you score before you start

planting.

1. Trees can starve to death.

2. When selecting a tree or shrub, don't worry whether it's

hardy.

3. Pruning must be done every year.

4. Prune newly planted trees immediately to encourage growth.

5. Deep watering - 12'' or more below the soil surface - is not

good for trees.

6. A tree that grows between 10 and 15 feet tall will often

spread its branches about the same distance.

7. Trees alter the environment by moderating climate and

conserving water.

8. Trees can improve the value of a home by up to 20 percent.

9. In 90 percent of all situations, plants struggle because

their basic needs are not met.

10. If you plant deep, the roots will grow more deeply.

11. Before planting, prune living branches to balance crown with

roots.

12. Topping does not injure trees.

13. Oak trees are more apt to be struck by lightning than beech

trees.

14. Trees have incredible root systems - much larger than we

realize.

Answers

1. True. Trees must have necessary light, water, nutrients and

oxygen to survive.

2. False. Trees and shrubs should be hardy in the area where

they are planted. Consult the Plant Hardiness Zone Map prepared by

the U.S. Department of Agriculture or ask a local garden

professional. (Most readers of this newspaper live in Zone 8, but

some trees that survive in Nags Head would die in the Eastern Shore

winters.)

3. True. Regular pruning will control shape and branch size.

For most trees, the best time to prune is from winter to early

spring.

4. False. Wait one full growing season before pruning.

5. True. Overwatering will cause leaves to turn yellow or fall

off. Water trees at least once a week and more frequently in hot

weather.

6. True. Plant such trees about 7 to 8 feet (or half its

height) away from houses or other structures.

7. True. Trees also improve air quality and harbor wildlife.

8. True. Trees are an excellent investment.

9. True. If the basic needs of a plant are not met, it will

lose its energy and ability to survive.

10. False. If the roots survive, they will grow upward.

11. False. Removing living branches takes food from a tree.

12. False. Topping injures wood in the crowns and the roots.

13. True. Because water conducts electricity better than oil,

the high water content of oak trees, contrasted with the high oil

content of beech trees, makes oaks more likely to be struck by

lightning.

14. True. The roots draw up all the available water in the

coverage area and store it.

Scoring

10-14 correct. Congratulations. You must care a great deal about

trees and their care.

8-10 correct. Good try. You're informed about trees and their

care.

1-7 correct. Keep studying.

Source: International Society of Arboriculture

INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF ARBORICULTURE

Members of the International Society of Arboriculture are

required to pass a rigorous certification program that includes a

professionally developed examination and education program on

accepted tree care practices. ISA members provide certificates of

insurance, proof of liability for personal and property damage and

workman's compensation.

Local members are:

Arbor Tree Experts, Virginia Beach, 425-1995.

Colonial Tree Care, Virginia Beach, 479-0080.

Nuckols Tree Care, Virginia Beach, 499-1143.

The society offers free literature on tree care. Send a stamped,

addressed business-size envelope to P.O. Box GG, Savoy, Ill.

61874-9902 and specify the subject in which you're interested. Call

(217) 355-9411. Fax (217) 355-9516.

by CNB