THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, October 20, 1994 TAG: 9410180133
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 13 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE
LENGTH: Medium: 70 lines
Situated as it is in a sort of canyon formed by three high-rise buildings, a visit to the GreenTrees Cafe in downtown Norfolk is reminiscent of dining at the kind of place you would expect to find in New York or Philadelphia, which is where owners Herschel and Helene Blum lived before moving south.
GreenTrees Cafe, in the former Balaban's on Bank Street, offers downtown diners a chance to have something fresh and healthy during that short one-hour break for lunch. Those with more time to dine might want to while away a sunny afternoon on the patio out front, with a cappuccino or a glass of wine, some crusted brie with fruit sauce and a good book. With skyscrapers looming overhead, though, you'll need to get there at high noon if you want to bask in the sun.
GreenTrees is the evolution, one might say, of its affiliate, the Green Grocer, which first opened on West 21st Street in the early '80s. The Blums operated gourmet supermarkets on Philadelphia's Main Line until a brief retirement period but kept coming to Norfolk to visit their grandchildren, so they decided to move south.
The original Green Grocer offered fresh produce, a custom meat department and its own sauces and marinades. A second location was opened later on Granby Street, but that was closed last May when the Blums moved across town to Bank Street.
The new Green Grocer offers catering, from full-service fine dining to box lunches, imported wines and beers, as well as custom-built gift boxes, anything from wine and chocolates to Angus steaks and Pommery mustard. Salads, such as ziti with roasted peppers and artichoke hearts or chicken salad with broccoli and mushrooms, are sold by the serving or the pound, Helene Blum said.
There is no more fresh produce or meat by the pound, but if you're hungry you might want to sit down and try one of GreenTrees Cafe's luncheon specials. Last week I had pan-seared shrimp with shredded salmon, feta cheese, calamata olives and sun-dried tomatoes in a balsamic vinaigrette, served warm over a bed of mesclun greens ($5.95), a most unusual presentation that was excellent. I started off with a cup of a Cheddar and corn soup and topped the meal with a ``Chocolate Annie,'' a cookie named for Herschel's mother that is just this side of a brownie, with peanuts and three kinds of chocolate.
Sandwiches at GreenTrees include a hot pastrami melt, a corned beef on pumpernickel, and a turkey, Cheddar cheese and chutney ($3.95), as well as a fried oyster Po' Boy ($5.95) and a Muffaletta (a New Orleans tradition, the Crescent City's version of the hero sandwich - $4.95).
Sandwiches from the grill include the classic Reuben ($4.95), the El Paso Burger (with tomato, onion, bean dip and guacamole - $5.95), and a Monte Cristo (a batter-dipped sandwich of turkey, ham, Swiss cheese and honey mustard ($4.95). Over-stuffed deli sandwiches of pastrami, corned and spiced beef are $5.95.
Last week the Blums were discussing an 18-pound loaf of German black bread they are bringing in for next week's Oktoberfest! party set for 6 to 9 p.m. Oct. 27 at the Chrysler Museum.
``We're bringing in from New York five different kinds of German sausages,'' Herschel said, ``including the small smoked sausages with the sweet and sour dipping sauce.''
The party is sponsored by For Arts Sake, the group that does the July party series and the big New Year's Eve gala.
``We do it so people will see the museum is not a scary place but a fun place,'' explained Susan Speers Hume, a member of the FAS board.
Tickets for the event are $12 for FAS members, $15 for non-members. Beverage tickets will be for sale inside. For information, call 622-ARTS for more information. I'm told tickets will be available at the door. by CNB