THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 23, 1994 TAG: 9410210054
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F6 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: THE HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
LENGTH: Long : 102 lines
THE FOURTH ANNUAL Chesapeake Bay Wine Classic auction was only five minutes old when a case of Robert Mondavi 1992 Chardonnay Carneros was sold for $400.
I am sure the successful bidder knew that this is a relatively rare and thoroughly stylish chardonnay. The bidder probably also knew that the retail agents of Mr. Mondavi are accustomed to parting with a case of the Carneros for about $280. Nevertheless, when the gavel fell, the bidder had agreed to pay $400.
Oh well, I told myself, there will be no bargains here today. And that's the way the auction went, all afternoon long, as it collected a record $73,416 on behalf of public broadcasting in Hampton Roads.
The enthusiastic bidding may have drowned me out, but it was music to the ears of the WHRO staffers on hand, and great fun for the hundreds of nonbidding spectators.
Here are some examples of how the bidding went:
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1970, one regular-sized, .750-liter bottle - estimated value, $200; successful bid, $280.
Heitz 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard, one .750-liter bottle - estimated value, $300; successful bid, $360.
Bordeaux of 1982, four .750-liter bottles each of Chateau Meyney, Chateau Talbot, Clos des Jacobin and Chateau Gruaud Larose - estimated value, $675; successful bid, $1,350.
Chateau Petrus 1979, two .750-liter bottles - estimated value, $400; successful bid, $625.
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Bella Oaks, one 1.5-liter bottle each of the 1980 and 1981 vintages - estimated value, $200; successful bid, $375.
Castello Banfi 1988 Brunello di Montalcino, one 3-liter bottle - estimated value, $150; successful bid, $260.
Chateau de Beaucastel 1983 Chateauneuf du Pape, one case of .750-liter bottles - estimated value, $540; successful bid, $750.
California Gold Rush, a collection of 35 California chardonnays from 1990 and 1991 in .750-bottles, from producers such as Mayacamus, Chateau Montelena, Grgich Hills, Matanzas Creek, William Hill (reserve), Morgan (reserve), Sonoma Cutrer (Les Pierres) and Stag's Leap (reserve) - estimated value, $750; successful bid, $1,300.
Pinot Power, a collection of 24 red burgundies and pinot noirs from California and Oregon, vintages 1988-1992, in .750-liter bottles, from producers such as Mongeard-Mugneret (Echezeaux Vieille Vigne), Rion (Vosne-Romanee), Acacia, Saintsbury, Sanford, Van Duzer (reserve) and Adelsheim - estimated value, $750; successful bid, $1,400.
Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1982, one case of .750-liter bottles - estimated value, $2,400; successful bid, $3,200.
The auction was Oct. 8 at Bayville Farms, and the Wine Classic continued the next day with a tasting of 100 wines at the Norfolk Waterside Marriott.
Regional wine distributors deserve praise not only for the high-caliber selections, but for ensuring that the various booths were staffed with those knowledgeable about wine. The milling tasters were asking good questions, and they were getting precise answers.
I was pleased with almost every wine I tasted. But a few were especially memorable:
Vine Cliff 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - I was unfamiliar with this wine and unprepared for the magnificent first sip. Wow! Vine Cliff is a small winery, which means that this wine may be difficult to find. Also, it costs a steep $35. But it is a blockbuster cab, rich in black currant fruit and with underpinnings of black olive and cedar. To me, it was best-in-show at the tasting.
St. Supery, another Napa winery, made a good showing, and even had its eastern regional manager, Michael T. Duerr, in place to pour and discuss the '89 Cabernet Sauvignon, '91 Chardonnay and '92 Sauvignon Blanc that were available for tasters. I have been drinking a lot of St. Supery wines ($10 to $13 range) recently, enjoying their constant quality, balanced structure and sophistication. If you can find the 1989 or 1990 Merlot Dollarhide Ranch from St. Supery, grab them up. They're bargains.
The Chalone Group poured some lovely wines, including the big and flinty Edna Valley 1992 Chardonnay (about $17) and the vanilla-pear laced Chalone 1992 Chardonnay (about $29). Impressive, as well, was the Gavilan 1991 Chardonnay (about $13). It is made from grapes grown in Chalone's younger vineyards and is a bright, crisp wine that would match well with many simple seafood dishes.
The Antonin Rodet Bourgogne Rodet wines, a chardonnay and a pinot noir (each about $13), combine a touch of French terroir with the fruity drinkability that Americans prefer.
The Kacher Selection booth poured what had to be the best cheap wine of the tasting, the Chateau de Campuget 1992 Costieres (about $6), which is a red made from Rhone-type grapes blended with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Also excellent were two Kacher whites, Lucien 1992 Sancerre Clos de la Crele ($16) and Toques and Clochers 1992 Chardonnay Limoux (about $18).
Praise goes, as well, to the wines of Benziger, De Loach and Murphy-Goode, which were popular with the tasters. Benziger may be the best of all labels for a wine lover to remember. Its wines are widely available and, more importantly, consistently good. The De Loach red zinfandels and chardonnays are often outstanding. And the Murphy-Goode lineup has no weak links. I am very fond of the Murphy-Goode 1992 Pinot Blanc Alexander Valley. MEMO: The Humble Steward is a biweekly feature of Sunday Flavor. Send
questions or comments to: The Humble Steward, Sunday Flavor, The
Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk,
Va. 23510. If possible, give complete label information when naming
wines, and list the vintage year. Please include your name and phone
number. by CNB