THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, November 3, 1994 TAG: 9411020065
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F5 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A La Carte
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 82 lines
LE CHAMBORD'S new bistro-rotisserie offers a casual attitude to complement the upscale continental style of the adjacent fine-dining restaurant in Virginia Beach.
In contrast to the elegant black, white and gold decor next door, the bistro features subtle gray stone, muted lights and dark wood chairs imported from Belgium. White tablecloths add light and a touch of elegance; forest green napkins with paper logo rings keep the mood down to earth.
In an open saute kitchen behind a long bar, chef Jonathan Keegan and staff stir up sauteed vegetables or chicken with leeks to top the pastas. If they like, diners can chat with the cooks.
A large glass-fronted rotisserie spins chickens for traditional bistro dinners, with mashed potatoes and sage-scented gravy (ours came with sauteed vegetables and crusty rolls), all for $9.95.
Other items on the changing menu might be beef bourguignon, pan-seared tuna, or duck and pork sausages with red cabbage. There are salads, hearty soups like French onion and Mediterranean fish soup, and plenty of splendid sweets.
Open for dinner from 5:30 p.m. ``until late,'' says owner Frank Spapen, this bigger-than-usual, informally sophisticated bistro also serves brunch on Sundays. Call 498-1234.
Areo goes fishing
The sign at Areo's Sea Grill, on Laskin Road in Virginia Beach, uses some of the letters from the former Joe's Sea Grill.
But the fish now talks Italian, under the tutelage of Michael Scaramellino Sr., chef-owner, and his son, Michael Jr., who manages the restaurant. They also own La Brocca, just around the corner, as well as Cafe Iguana and the Captain's Table.
The Scaramellinos have revitalized the charming cafe setting with its black-and-white tile floors, bold wooden booths, massive domed light fixtures and glass brick trim. In the middle of the dining room, a large wooden table displays the makings of fresh Caesar salads.
``Try the seafood cocktail,'' suggested our waiter, and so we enjoyed a combination of medium shrimp, scallops and fresh calamari drizzled with lemon juice, garlic, and olive oil for an especially satisfying light starter. More wintry was eggplant rolled around a blend of ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.
Simple white tilapia was glamorized by a fresh salsa; veal areo was balanced with mushrooms and a bit of prosciutto and mozzarella.
All seafood and meat main courses come with soup or salad, vegetables, and wonderful bread from the local Baker's Crust.
Areo, which opened late last month, promises to bring more excellent Italian food to the Oceanfront at lunch time as well as dinner. Call 428-0111.
Southern style
Wilma's Chili Parlor on Colley Avenue in Norfolk is no trendy eatery.
In fact, it's bare bones, starting with huge picnic tables inviting families to spread out and eat hearty.
Like Fellini's on 21st Street, also owned by Mike Cavish, Wilma's has an assortment of wooden tables and chairs (and one upholstered damask wing chair for somebody special).
Behind the big bar in the middle, a row of booths hugs the forest green walls, which are punctuated by arched etched glass panels. Over each booth hangs a chandelier rescued from somebody's long-ago dining room.
Don't come if you're on a low-fat diet; this food is all Southern style. The chicken is fried. The meatloaf is smothered in sweet tomato gravy. The pork chops and country steak are fried. Even the salmon is fried.
Vegetables are cooked with meat, notably collards with ham. But the chili isn't fried, nor is the chicken and dumplings. Wilma's own chili has large-grind chuck with red beans and a peppery red stock; a version of white chili is thick with chicken chunks but not enough white beans in this Louisville specialty with a hint of cumin.
Prices are small, and portions are huge; but bring cash (no credit cards accepted). Wilma's is open for lunch and dinner. Call 627-7441. MEMO: Send restaurant news, along with your name and a daytime phone number,
to a la carte, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, 150
W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510, or send e-mail to
dreiss(AT)infi.net.
by CNB