THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, November 6, 1994 TAG: 9411080512
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 90 lines
THE AURA OF a mid-century country club still lingers at Steinhilber's Thalia Acres Inn in Virginia Beach.
A sweeping lawn, river view, open beams, white-jacketed waiters - such details continue the tradition of fine family dining established by Robert Steinhilber in 1939.
On the foundations of the Lynnhaven Golf and Country Club that once graced the site, Steinhilber built the main dining room where several generations of area families have dined in leisurely style. Today, his children Jeanne and Steve operate the restaurant; John Myers, finish chef, has been with them for 12 years.
For many locals, fried shrimp is synonymous with Steiny's. Indeed, these wonderful jumbo fantailed shrimp are lightly battered and crisply fried for a delicate version that's not quite tempura nor typically Southern. They're not inexpensive at $19.95 a dozen, but devotees think they're worth every penny. A dinner portion of the shrimp costs only $14.95 with salad, potato, and rolls. With them comes ``our Famous sauce,'' but, for our taste, it bears too much resemblance to somebody else's Thousand Island.
Less renowned but no less worthy than the shrimp are the delicately seasoned crabcakes, which come as appetizers or a main course. No filler-filled cakes are these.
Other starters are classic shrimp cocktail, crab-filled she-crab soup, and a pleasant creamy seafood chowder with clams, corn, potatoes and a slightly smoky scent.
The simplicity of Steinhilber's menu is one of its hallmarks. All meals include a salad, potato and bread. Meal choices are seafood - broiled, grilled or fried - except for two steaks and prime rib.
The sauces are the weak link: fresh dill sauce, for example, tasted like warm commercial vinaigrette. The sauces aren't needed, however, because the fish tastes fresh and is cooked just right. An outstanding large fillet of mackerel was heaped with lightly seasoned crab for $3 extra. That's all we needed.
Tuna, too, was a large enough serving, slightly more done than we had hoped but very tasty nonetheless. Whatever's in season is featured. Our waiter said the fresh fish had just arrived, and he'd have to check the kitchen to see what catch of the day was. Typical might be grouper, salmon, swordfish, mahi mahi, or flounder. Lobster tails are available as well.
Our meat-eater had doubts about the couple of steaks on the menu of this seafood restaurant. But the 16-ounce Angus sirloin strip was excellent. Twice-baked potatoes had a moderately creamy filling. Salads included mixed lettuces, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes. And small white rolls added the right note of old Southern gentility.
Many desserts are house-made. We like the pecan pie and apple pie, not overly sweet and both optionally topped with cream-rich ice cream from Bergey's dairy.
Three dozen wines include eight to 10 by the glass, most of them $4 to $5. Bottles average $22 and include 15 Chardonnays from France and California.
Reservations are not accepted, but we have no reservations about recommending this traditional Virginia Beach restaurant for its no-nonsense approach to fish.
Change, however, is in the works. ``To keep up with the times,'' says Steve Steinhilber, they're adding a waiting area and an expanded menu with pastas and lighter dishes. Look for the new menu before the end of the year. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of four,
unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for
the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Photo
ROY A. BAHLS
Steinhilber's features a sweeping lawn, river view, open beams and
white-jacketed waiters.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Steinhilber's Thalia Acres Inn
653 Thalia Road, Virginia Beach
340-1156
Cuisine: seafood and three beef dishes; legendary fried fantail
shrimp.
Atmosphere: Country club casual: sweeping lawn, Lynnhaven River
view, open beams, white-jacketed waiters.
Prices: starters from $3 to $19.95 (averaging $5.95); main
courses from $14.95 to $19.95; desserts from $1.75 to $4; children's
half portions for half price.
Hours: from 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.
Reservations: for parties of eight or more.
Smoking: about one-third of seating.
by CNB