THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, November 20, 1994 TAG: 9411170073
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
LENGTH: Medium: 100 lines
IN 1878 the Monticello Wine Co., a 5-year-old winery in Charlottesville, was asked by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to enter its wines in competition at an international exposition in Paris.
The winery did as it was asked and sent two bottles each of the six wines it produced.
An officer of the company remembered that the Virginia entry looked shabby compared to the ``pyramids of artistically exhibited wines'' from California and other U.S. regions.
But the judges apparently did not take artistic presentation into account. The Monticello wines picked up several medals, including the only silver medal won by a United States wine.
California entries did not win even a bronze medal.
Several national awards followed for Monticello wines, and then, in an 1884-85 international exhibition in New Orleans, the company - by now bold enough to enter three cases of its wines - came away with two first-class medals.
It had become the shining buckle of what was then called the Eastern Wine Belt.
But Prohibition was to cause the Virginia wine industry to collapse, and not until the 1970s did it begin a comeback. Few Virginians remember the Monticello wines.
But if Dennis Horton, owner of Horton Vineyards and Montdomaine Cellars near Charlottesville, has his way, he will revive the memory of Monticello wines by engineering the comeback of the red grape that made the winery famous.
The grape is called norton and it is as much a Virginian as Robert E. Lee. The hybrid grape was propagated in Richmond in 1835 by D.N. Norton, who wanted to develop a grape suited to the Virginia climate.
Horton Vineyards is growing norton grapes and recently introduced the Horton 1992 Norton Orange County (about $12). The oak-aged wine, says Dennis Horton, is patterned after Monticello's ``original claret.''
The wine has pronounced cherry and tar flavors, similar to other wines made from hybrid red grapes such as chambourcin. But it has a spiciness and long finish that give it more dimensions than its hybrid competitors.
Horton's norton (Who can resist the name?) is but one of the remarkable new wines that the winery has in the marketplace.
The winery's commitment to French Rhone-type grapes has produced excellent white varietals made from viognier and marsanne. Both are getting favorable mention in the national wine media. The red mourvedre is commendable, as well.
Dennis Horton believes that, as with the norton, the Rhone grape varieties are well suited to Virginia.
In addition, he is high on Bordeaux varieties, and his Horton 1991 Cabernet Franc Orange County (about $13) is one of the better red wines Virginia has produced in recent years. (This cabernet franc, by the way, is 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent norton.)
The Horton wines are finding their way into local wine shops. Those who would like to visit Horton/Montdomaine should call (804) 971-8947. A TASTE OF THE NEW
The 1994 Beaujolais nouveau has arrived on our shores, and the experts predict it will be a hit with consumers.
This nouveau is the fresh, tropical fruity red wine from the Beaujolais district of France. Traditionally, it gives us our first taste of the vintage.
A good opportunity to taste this wine, and support a good cause at the same time, will be the Nouveau Nite party at 6 p.m. Monday at Five-01 City Grill, on Birdneck Road in Virginia Beach.
Proceeds from the event will go to Samaritan House to help build transitional housing for homeless families in Norfolk and Virginia Beach.
In addition to the George DuBoeuf 1994 Beaujolais Nouveau, other French wines from Macon, Bordeaux, Gascognes and Minervois will be served. Food will be from the kitchens of Five-01 City Grill and The Big Tomato restaurant.
Also, there will be drawings for prizes provided by area merchants.
Tickets are $40 per person or $70 per couple. Call Five-01 City Grill at 425-7195 or Samaritan House at 430-2642 for ticket information.
If you cannot make it to the Nouveau Nite party, call your local wine shop to inquire about the arrival of the Beaujolais. The price should be $8 to $9 a bottle. AUSTRALIAN BARGAIN
Bargain hunter that I am, I was pleased with a purchase of Orlando 1991 Jacob's Creek Cabernet Sauvignon from southeast Australia.
The price was $6, and for that I tend to expect a grape-juicy nose and uncomplicated taste.
But the Jacob's Creek proclaims its difference from the first whiff of raisins and licorice. It reminded me of a red wine that a tradition-minded Italian might make, a wine that is mature tasting at the time of its release.
Recent vintages of Orlando's Jacob's Creek chardonnay, also about $6, are good values, too. MEMO: The Humble Steward is a regular feature of Sunday Flavor. Send questions
or comments to: The Humble Steward, Sunday Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot
and The Ledger-Star, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510. If
possible, give complete label information when naming wines, and list
the vintage year. Please include your name and phone number. by CNB