THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, December 22, 1994 TAG: 9412210067
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F6 EDITION: FINAL
LENGTH: Short : 47 lines
Here are some wines to serve with your Victorian Christmas feast:
Soup course - A mellow sparkling wine could be served as an aperitif, as well as at the table to complement the first course. An extra-dry example, which is less dry and often fruitier than a brut, is recommended. The Piper-Heidsieck Extra Dry Champagne (discounted to $18 in some shops) would be a fine choice.
Alternatives: the Oasis Extra Dry Sparkling Wine Virginia ($15) or the extra drys of Totts and Korbel ($6 to $10).
Main course - A German riesling spatlese can be served with roasted goose, but the port gravy here tilts the recommendation to a red wine with generous fruit flavors. A full-bodied zinfandel from California would marry well with the flavors on the plate.
Try the Black Mountain 1989 Zinfandel Cramer Ridge Alexander Valley ($12). A cherry-rich pinot noir such as the Sterling 1992 Pinot Noir Winery Lake Carneros ($14) would be less potent, but have sufficient body.
Alternatives from Virginia: the Horton 1992 Norton Monticello ($12) and the Horton 1991 or 1992 Cabernet Franc Monticello ($12). An Australian shiraz from a producer such as Rosemont ($7 to $10) would be economical.
Salad course - Vinegar in dressings makes wines taste bitter and thin, so many people prefer to eat salads without wine. Perhaps it would be best to leave the red wine from the main course on the table through the salad course. A bite of salad that includes a chunk of Stilton cheese could be followed without regret by a sip of the red wine.
Dessert - A ruby Port from Portugal ($9 and up to $50 for recent vintage-dated examples) would complement the bing cherry and chocolate trifle. A white Port from Portugal ($9 to $15) could be served with the poached oranges.
A late-harvest muscat canelli ($10 to $20 for half bottle) would match both desserts, as would the Linden Late Harvest Vidal from Virginia ($14 for half bottle).
But mixing sweet beverages and sweet foods is not easy. Many diners will want to wait until they have finished their dessert to begin sipping their dessert wine.
Jim Raper, Sunday Flavor wine columnist by CNB