THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, January 19, 1995 TAG: 9501180044
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A La Carte
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 63 lines
WE'RE GROWING more cosmopolitan in Hampton Roads, as the opening of several restaurants demonstrates.
Mama Africa, 309 Aragona Blvd. at the Aragona Shoppes in Virginia Beach, is the first to serve solely African food.
One wall of the no-frills dining room features a silhouette of Africa with the west coast country of Gambia spotlighted. Curries, peanut-flavored sauces, and lots of potatoes and rice characterize this hearty cuisine; a bowl of gumbo is naturally thickened by gumbo and an abundance of tender beef and other ingredients.
Acara, or black-eyed pea fritters, are surprisingly light and fluffy within and delightfully crisp though a little greasy from the frying. Traditional caldu was red snapper on rice with lots of vegetables and a scoop of vinegary-spinach for contrast. Portions are large and prices are small, the most expensive main dish only $7.95. Call 557-0832.
New Bangkok brings the flavors of Thailand to Kempsville at 5313 Indian River Road in Virginia Beach. Open since the middle of December, this large restaurant has an attractive layout, wood paneling, and dark green napkins and upholstery for an upscale casual look.
All the traditional dishes are here, including shrimp soup, tangy shredded papaya salad in lime juice, phad thai noodles with peanuts and choice of meat, and whole fried fish. We sampled the roasted chicken with a delicious gravy sauce. A mildly spiced red sauce thickly coated crispy-skinned chicken. Call 523-2900.
New neighborhood
From 1985 to 1993, Tracy's Clam and Oyster Bar was one of the neighborhood places along Shore Drive in Virginia Beach. Since May 1994, owner Tracy Anderson has been shucking bivalves at his new venue with the same name, at 9500 30th Bay St. in Norfolk.
At the end of Pretty Lake Avenue at Bay Point Marina, Anderson serves raw or steamed oysters and clams for $7.95 a baker's dozen; Carolina-style boiled shrimp with potatoes, corn and keilbasa; and generous servings of fish fried with a spicy breading. Skip the frozen fried calamari and stick with the fresh foods.
Monday through Friday, early-bird special dinners are $8.95, and appetizers are discounted $2. Earlier birds can come for breakfast from 9 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday only. If you're a senior citizen, you get 10 percent off anything you order at any time.
There's an excellent view of the marina. The restaurant has a friendly mood and a large selection of microbrews. Call 362-2100.
Quick bites
Coming in April to a corner near the courthouse in Virginia Beach: Brewer's East Inn. Chef Todd Brown will be in charge of the kitchen of the restaurant under construction at North Landing Road and George Mason Drive. Expect a casual family restaurant with Southern country charm, says manager Georgia Brewer. . . . Sample Caribbean food in Chesapeake at the just-opened Island Grill, where Gladwin Jarvis is offering tropical delights at 2444 Cedar Road. Phone 485-1486. by CNB