THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, January 22, 1995 TAG: 9501240493
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F3 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 91 lines
MOZZARELLA'S CAFE is one of the newest chain entries in Hampton Roads. With its Italian menu, the restaurant competes in a crowded category but offers an ethnic food popular with Americans.
The medium-sized restaurant in Chesapeake's Greenbrier Mall opened in November and seemed very popular on a recent Saturday night when our party of four dined.
A few service mix-ups occurred, but the courteous staff was apologetic and even scratched one entree from the bill and put the desserts on the house.
The atmosphere is informal with string lights, cans of Italian products along one wall and a television set in one corner for sports buffs. Mozzarella's faces Greenbrier Parkway, and diners may enter directly from outside or from the mall.
The biggest difference between Mozzarella's and its competitors - the Olive Garden, Italian Oven, Spaghetti Warehouse - is that much of the menu is non-Italian. Such standard chain fare as grilled chicken ($7.99 and $8.99 depending on the style such as Southwest, Cajun, teriyaki) and a more unusual chicken pot pie ($6.99) are available.
One entree we ordered, Canyon Ranch Ravioli ($7.99) actually combines the traditional Italian stuffable pasta with fillings and toppings from the Rio Grande area - black beans, cilantro, green chilies and Monterey Jack cheese.
But the combo didn't work well. The spicy sauce overwhelmed the pasta filling.
A spokesman for the Alabama-based chain says plans are in the works to increase the percentage of Italian dishes on the menu.
The appetizers offered by Mozzarella's are very good. The bruschetta ($3.49), which is toasted bread topped with a blend of tomatoes, grilled eggplant, basil, garlic and balsamic vinegar, was delicious; sort of an Italian salsa.
We also split a sausage and pepperoni ``Pizzatizer'' ($4.49), which isn't too adventurous but provides solid nourishment. Mozzarella's also offers entree pizzas, ranging from traditional to the gourmet, such as barbecue chicken and goat cheese.
In addition to the hybrid ravioli, we ordered the Country Italian Primavera ($9.99), Caribbean Fresh Catch ($8.99) and Southwestern Chicken ($8.99).
The Primavera, a pasta dish with shrimp, goat cheese, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, onions, black olives, spinach and basil sauteed in balsamic tomato stock, was a wonderfully blended dish.
The chicken breast, char-grilled and topped with cheese, barbecue sauce and chopped tomatoes and scallions, was ordinary.
The fresh fish, a grilled mahi-mahi on this evening, has possibilities. Served with Caribbean seasoning and a pineapple ginger sauce, the dish was bland. Here's some advice: accelerate the ginger and heat up the Caribbean spices just slightly.
Desserts rarely disappoint in chains, and Mozzarella's is no exception. Both the Heath Bar Tartuffo ($2.99) and Cappuccino Cheesecake ($3.49) were greedily consumed, leaving the diners feeling guilty.
Kids are treated nicely. They can borrow a toy to keep them occupied at the table. If they're too young to split a pizza, the children's menu, with puzzles and accompanying crayons, has corn dogs, cheeseburgers, pasta and a small pizza. Kids' prices range from $1.99 to $2.79.
Mozzarella's is owned by Morrisons Restaurants, an Alabama-based corporation that also owns the Ruby Tuesday chain and Morrison's Cafeterias. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Photo
ROY A. BAHLS
Much of the menu in Mozzarella's Cafe, which opened in November in
Chesapeake's Greenbrier Mall, is non-Italian. But the Alabama-based
chain plans to expand the number of Italian dishes.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Mozzarella's Cafe: Greenbrier Mall, Chesapeake. 523-0405.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11
p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Pasta dishes from $6.49 to $9.99; pizzas from $5.99 to
$7.99; grilled entrees from $7.99 to $10.99; soup, salad and
sandwich items from $4.99 to $6.99. Salads are $1.99 extra.
Reservations: Not accepted but diners may call ahead to get on
the waiting list.
Smoking: About 40 percent of the dining area, concentrated toward
the back of the restaurant.
Owned By: Morrisons Restaurants Inc., Mobile, Ala., which has 36
Mozzarella's restaurants, mostly east of the Mississippi River. The
Chesapeake unit is the only one in Hampton Roads.
by CNB