THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, February 2, 1995 TAG: 9501310109
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: ON THE TOWN
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE
LENGTH: Medium: 78 lines
The upcoming Chinese New Year will celebrate the ``Year of the Pig,'' and it's easy enough for me to eat like the proverbial piglet when I get a chance to chow down on the food from Kin's Wok, the tiny Chinese eatery chosen as one of ``Flavor's Favorites'' by food writers and educators in a recent article.
Audrey Ling and her family brought ``New York-style'' Chinese food to 21st Street in Ghent back in 1992, and now they have opened a second location at Wards Corner, a few doors down from the Super Fresh Food Market.
First, the good news. The new Kin's Wok offers the same expansive menu, with more than 200 dishes, many of which you'll find nowhere else in the area, at the same prices (tax included) as the Ghent location.
Now, the bad news. At present, there is no home delivery. That meant I had to drive from Wards Corner to Larchmont last week in a car filled with the mingled aromas of boneless ribs, chicken and eggplant in a garlic sauce, and the mysteries of the ``Buddhist Delight,'' as well as a pair of pre-schoolers who were ready to eat.
One can dine in at either Kin's Wok, of course, but the food is the important thing. The restaurants themselves are appointed more like mall takeout shops, with full-color illustrations of various plates, a handful of tables and counter service.
But, oh, the food! As I mentioned, we tried the Buddhist Delight ($6.75, and No. 102 on the menu, if you're counting), a mix of Chinese vegetables with tofu in a rich brown sauce. Our second entree, chicken and eggplant in garlic sauce ($7.25), was selected from the ``Chef's Specialties'' and was marked with a warning red star to indicate that it was hot and spicy, but it wasn't so overpowering that the children couldn't eat it. The eggplant is cut into strips and sealed, I suppose, by the high heat of the wok so that it is firm to the touch.
Adding a quart of wonton soup with crispy noodles ($2.25), a small order of boneless ribs (strips of spice-reddened pork - $4.25) and white rice, we had enough to feed our family of five, with the usual lunch leftovers I have grown to expect.
Kin's Wok 2 offers the traditional chow mein, lo mein and chop suey dishes, along with moo shu, egg foo young and pan-fried noodles. The adventurous may try exotic specialties such as Szechuan chicken with peanuts (diced chicken with peppers, celery, baby corn, water chestnuts, carrots, straw mushrooms and peanuts in a spicy sauce - $7.75) or ``Five Delicious,'' with chunks of scallop, lobster, roast pork, chicken and jumbo shrimp sauteed with Chinese vegetables in a brown sauce ($8.75).
There are nearly 40 lunch specials ($4 to $4.50) served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Saturday, and half that many combination plates, such as chicken with broccoli or sweet and sour pork ($5.75, with pork-fried rice and an egg roll.) The dozens of other dishes include fried fish ($2.50 plain/$3.50 with fries or fried rice), and a health-food section of steamed, low-calorie, salt- and oil-free meals.
In short, Kin's Wok 2 is a no-frills, Chinese food festival that appears ready to live up to the reputation of its sister operation across town. Now, if they'll only work out that delivery situation, we will be a ``Happy Family'' (lobster, shrimp, chicken, beef, roast pork, scallops, crab and Chinese vegetables with white rice - $10.50.)
A Chinese New Year Celebration is planned for the Waterside this Saturday, from noon until 7 p.m., featuring dancers, artists and entertainers. Sponsored by the Shine Shine Palace and Szechuan Garden at The Waterside, the event also will feature cultural performances, food tasting and Chinese Scripture lessons, and is free and open to the public. Call 627-3300 for information. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by GARY C. KNAPP
Kin's Wok 2, featuring ``New York-style'' Chinese food, has opened
at Wards Corner.
Graphic
AT A GLANCE
[For complete graphic, please see microfilm]
by CNB