THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, February 12, 1995 TAG: 9502090047
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: Long : 119 lines
FOR MONROE DUNCAN, longtime local executive chef and restaurateur on-the-move, a marina-side location on Shore Drive in Norfolk has been the closest thing to a permanent kitchen.
Monroe's, the Restaurant, opened as Piranha: An Eating Frenzy in 1992 and was revised last November with a menu that shows off the dishes Duncan does best.
For more than 30 years, he has been involved in local restaurants, many of them trendsetters, all of them infused with his gusto for good food and upbeat atmosphere. Butter-rich foods are a hallmark, but simpler dishes always are available.
Supporting Duncan is chef Tim Crane for kitchen cuisine. And Tony Klementzos prepares such tableside creations as Caesar salad - one of the best in the city - and a flambeed bananas foster that my dinner companion called ``astonishing.''
Monroe cooks little himself these days, but he did the honors for our party of five after his astute and elegant head waiter, Philip Johnson, saw through my disguise and tipped off the boss about our presence. An occasional lull in service and a few items that didn't strike our fancy were overshadowed by the good nature of the staff, and quite a few fine dishes.
Several starters were exceptional, notably crawfish Chappell's and shrimp Savoy Seay, the former a comfortably spiced blend of creme fraiche and Cajun seasonings with plenty of crawfish and tomato angel hair pasta. Shrimp Savoy Seay, a recipe from the Nations Room, where Duncan learned tableside cookery in the 1960s, has long been a favorite of mine. Unfortunately, this night, too heavy a dusting of Parmesan competed with the delicate balance of sherry, garlic and mushrooms in butter.
Fried calamari was deliciously crisp until it sank into a tangle of buttery lemon pepper fettuccine, becoming even more dangerous to cholesterol counts.
Duncan's cream of crab soup was a spicy deep-South style; generous chunks of tomato added a rosy tint. A previous experience with rugged, smoky Hatteras clam chowder revealed it as one of the best.
Salads are among the stars and offer a necessary light interlude in the rich cuisine. California lettuces come with a sprinkling of walnuts and a few sliced cucumbers; rosy vinaigrette on the side keeps it light. Caesar is a sparkling rendition, mixed tableside with flair.
On weekends, Monroe's offers tableside main dishes. This night's was steak Diane, three thin filets gently bathed in a light demiglaze flamed with cognac, tasty enough but at $19.95 a little pricey for the beef and a baked potato. This potato was dotted with carrot threads to add a touch of sweetness and reduce the need for butter, a trick Duncan picked up from a diet plan.
We've been assured there was hardly a calorie in the delightful off-menu special of moonfish; a firm-fleshed white fish from Hawaii, known there as opah, was grilled and placed on a spray of thinnest white cabbage threads and rice lightly flavored with sesame and red chilies plus pineapple salsa and a red-pepper chutney.
Another hot locale inspired spicy etouffee, the Louisiana specialty stew of shrimp, scallops, crawfish, peppers and rice, richly brown as if made with with traditional gumbo file roux. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the popular seafood lasagna from Suddenly Last Summer was a creamy mass, too milky and sweet for our taste.
Bananas Foster, caramalized tableside and garnished with a scoop of creamy coffee ice cream, outshone all other sweets. Monroe's mother's own bread pudding was smooth and pleasantly sweetened, but the whiskey sauce pasty. Apple strudel, though cold, was quite good; peanut-butter cheesecake appealed most to the die-hard, gooey-dessert fans among us. Cappuccino displayed clumps of powder in the presentation; it would be better not to offer cappuccino than to offer an imitation.
Dinners begin with a basket of bread, typically including homemade banana muffins and at least one other bread. On this night were offered both fruit bread and exceptional rye rolls, soft inside and crisp outside.
Wines are moderately priced. Opera on the sound system reflects Duncan's flair for the dramatic.
On Sundays, the brunch buffet features breakfast items and a number of hot dishes. Examples include shepherd's pie made Southern by Cajun spices; pasta with vegetables and seafood; and a meat selection. Omelets are cooked to order. Salads are predressed and therefore best before they've sat too long; fortunately they're made from excellent lettuce and dressings. Whole poached fish are attractively displayed. Desserts have included exquisite lemon bars and sassy sherry trifles, along with several other choices. Included in the price is a mimosa or glass of champagne; coffee costs extra.
As always, a restaurant with Monroe Duncan in charge has much to recommend it. The increased variety of the new menu should attract people who found Piranha's offerings too narrow. When summer comes, watch for patio barbecues, a treat for fair evenings. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of four,
unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for
the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Restaurateur Monroe Duncan converted his former Norfolk
establishment, Piranha: An Eating Frenzy, to Monroe's in November.
The adventurous cuisine at Monroe's on Shore Drive includes Braised
Filet of Tuna, Paul Bocuse.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Monroe's, 8180 Shore Drive, Norfolk. 588-0100.
Cuisine: Eclectic American with some classical and tropical
touches; tableside preparations on weekends.
Atmosphere: Cheerful bright colors tempered by neutral
tablecloths and crisp, white servers' jackets; on one wall, a bright
Edenic mural, on others, memorabilia from owner Monroe Duncan's
distinguished culinary career.
Prices: Starters, soups and salads from $3 to $8.95; main dishes
from $8.95 to $18.95. Children's menu, from $3.95 to $6.95. Sunday
brunch $10.95.
Hours: from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; from 5 to 11
p.m. Friday and Saturday; Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations: Recommended weekends.
Smoking: 30 percent of the dining area.
by CNB