THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, March 19, 1995 TAG: 9503160034
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 96 lines
T.G.I. Friday's, established 30 years ago, is the granddaddy of the national big-chain restaurants. But it's a long way from its New York City home and its beginnings.
The company aggressively expands its frontiers. In recent months, it has introduced the French, Swiss and Chinese to such American menu regulars as Buffalo wings, Cajun-fried chicken salad and chimichangas. According to a spokesman for the Dallas-based company, the Parisians can't get enough of the chain's potato-skin appetizers.
The lone Friday's in Hampton Roads, near Lynnhaven Mall in Virginia Beach, is friendly and noisy with predictable food to accompany its good-times atmosphere. Both the awnings and the serving staff are bedecked in bright red and white stripes, the chain's trademark.
Judging from the menu, Friday's is thoroughly up-to-date on every appetite trend in the United States. Its menu - complete with pizzas (both gourmet and traditional), deli sandwiches, Southwestern dishes, pasta, steaks (even chicken-fried steak) and low-cal Friday Lite items (complete with calorie and cholesterol counts) - is the most eclectic we've experienced.
The bill of fare also mixes up basic chain-restaurant food in interesting ways. Blackened tuna Caesar salad, Cantonese chicken salad and blackened chicken Alfredo on pasta are in the American take-it-to-the-limit tradition.
The chain is good with the little touches. A sprig of mint comes with the iced tea. The house salad is fresh; the house dressing, an Italian recipe with a hint of blue cheese, would please even those spud-loving Parisians.
The Beach Friday's is dominated by an elevated bar surrounded by lower-level dining tables. On weekends, it can take up to a half-hour to be seated, so call ahead to get on the waiting list just before leaving home. Reservations aren't accepted.
For appetizers, our party of three split orders of fried calamari ($5.29) and Thai chicken strips ($4.99), both good but accompanied by dipping sauces - marinara and peanut, respectively - that needed more zest. Anything Thai screams for heat.
Our entrees - all included the house salad - were linguine with shrimp ($9.49), maple pecan glazed salmon ($10.99) and steak on a stick ($8.69).
The linguine came with six or seven medium shrimp and was nicely prepared with a dollop of white wine.
We debated the merits of the salmon. The fish was good, but is the flavor of salmon something that stands on its own, like a good steak, and not to be tampered with? The salmon was served with rice and lightly steamed and sauteed broccoli.
The steak on a stick is chunks of beef marinated in teriyaki sauce and served on skewers. The meat had an excellent flavor, not overwhelmed by the marinade, but was cooked about one notch past the medium-rare we had requested. The steak was served with broccoli and a medium-sized baked potato covered with melted cheese.
For dessert, we ordered the chocolate malted turtle ($2.99), a particularly gooey concoction that should irk your calorie conscience. Split it, as we did.
By all means, bring the kids. They'll feel at home here with balloons and special mats to color. The entrees are cheap: chicken fingers are $2.49 and a grilled-cheese sandwich is $1.99. Both include french fries and strawberry apple sauce.
And they'll love that chocolate malted turtle. MEMO: Reviews of chain restaurants with stores in Hampton Roads are based on a
single, unannounced visit by a party of two or three, unless otherwise
noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for the reviewer's
meal and those of the guests.
CHAIN REACTION
T.G.I. Friday's: 796 Lynnhaven Parkway, Virginia Beach (across from
Lynnhaven Mall). 468-6818.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 to 1 a.m.
Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Regular dishes, $6.29 to $10.99; steaks, $7.29 to $14.29;
low-calorie entrees, $5.39 to $7.89; pizzas, $6.69 to $7.99 (plus 69
cents per extra topping); pasta dinners, $6.79 to $9.49; entree salads,
$5.39 to $7.89; sandwiches and fries, $5.49 to $6.69.
Reservations: Not accepted, but diners may call ahead to get on the
list.
Smoking: Permitted at 40 percent of the tables.
Owned by: TGI Friday's Inc., Dallas, which operates, licenses or
franchises 316 units in 44 states and 16 countries.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS color photos
T.G.I. Friday's is easily recognized by its bold red-and-white
striped awning...
A rack of baby back pork ribs...
Roy Bahls photo
The menu at T.G.I. Friday's isn't the only thing that's eclectic:
The decor features everything but the kitchen sink.
by CNB