The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, March 19, 1995                 TAG: 9503180048
SECTION: DAILY BREAK              PAGE: E3   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: FROM STAFF AND WIRE REPORTS 
                                             LENGTH: Long  :  125 lines

DON'T LET DOLLAR'S PLUNGE DETER YOU

EUROPE WANTS YOU. It wants to feed you, house you, transport you, entertain you and send you home richer for the experience and poorer for the pocketbook.

Until this month, Europe was expecting you.

Granted, the Europeans were not anticipating a boom year for Americans to travel their way, but they were planning on a continuation of the growth of the last three years. Last year, a record 8.3 million Americans crossed the Atlantic, and that figure, an 8 percent jump over 1993, was expected to increase by 5 percent this year.

But that was before the dollar began falling. Now, many Americans might be rethinking plans. While there is no way to figure what will happen in the future, the fact is the dollar is down and your trip could cost more than it would have just a few weeks ago. Then again, the dollar could rise, just as dramatically.

Travel planners say that while some destinations - France and Germany among them - will remain expensive, some countries will be relative bargains. The consensus list: Italy, Spain, Portugal, Great Britain, Greece and Turkey.

Especially Turkey. There, the dollar has gained about 30 percent in recent weeks against the inflating lira, and Turkish Airlines has kept round-trip fares from U.S. gateways below $1,000. Slight nuisance: Turkey, alone among the European Community nations, now requires a visa ($20) from U.S. tourists.

There's no reason to change plans or even scrap the trip to Europe. Planning is, and has been, the key to a successful and value-filled trip to Europe or anywhere. Whether you plan to backpack or hit the four-star hotels, here are other ideas for saving money, no matter what the dollar does:

Planning your trip: If I had to pick a single book, I think it would be ``Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door'' (John Muir Publications, $17.95). It proudly proclaims itself to be America's best-selling budget travel handbook. The 13th edition devotes itself to everything from itinerary planning to local transportation to leaping the language barrier and meeting real Europeans. Steves also describes 37 off-the-beaten-path travel destinations - Europe's ``back doors.''

Steves writes as he speaks (maybe you've seen him on TV) - with a yakety-yak voice wonderfully different from the sicky-smooth, don't-offend-anyone tone in most travel books. He's a rare writer willing to dump on destinations that don't meet his expectations. Reading Steves is like having a smart-aleck buddy who has been everywhere and will steer you clear of the tourist traps.

Write for his FREE 80-page guide on European railpasses: P.O. Box 2009, Edmonds, Wash. 98020; or call (206) 771-8303.

Getting there: As of the moment, air fares are not expected to increase this summer, and some people think there may be another summer air fare sale later this year. Some airlines are offering discounts to those purchasing summer transportation now.

Airfare is the biggest single bite out of your budget. Shop for a deal. First stop is a good travel agent to cull through the hundreds of fares offered by airlines. Tell them you are looking for APEX fares, the lowest tourist-class tickets. There will be a lot of restrictions on when you can fly, change flights and get a refund, but anything else will add hundreds to your price.

Bottom line: If you are paying more than $800 round-trip to London or $900 round-trip to any other major European destination, you're not shopping hard enough.

Getting around: Car or train? Rail usually wins hands down. European trains are great fun. Gasoline is incredibly expensive and driving is stressful.

Eurail Pass: Available only in the United States, it gives you unlimited first-class rail travel through most countries. (Britain is the big exception.) The 1995 rates: 15 days for $498, 21 days for $648, one month for $798, two months for $1,098.

Eurail Flexi-Pass: It gives you a small number of travel days over a longer period for a reduced price. The 1995 rates: Five days over two months costs $348, 10 days $560.

Other passes: If you are going to just one or two countries, it's smarter to buy passes for the national railroad alone. Work with your travel agent to determine the pass that's best for you. For Rail Europe brochures, including the Eurail Timetable, call (800) 4-EURAIL.

New this year: Eurobus, offering hop-on, hop-off services similar to Eurailpass along a route connecting 19 major cities. It claims to offer first-class service at less than what you'd pay for a second-class train ticket: for instance, $325 for two months of unlimited travel for adults, 250 for age 26 and under. One bonus is Prague, not on the Eurail system. Call (800) 517-7778.

Now I lay me . . .: For rock bottom prices, Hostelling International is the umbrella group for 6,000 hostels throughout Europe. Nearly anyone can stay at these dormitory-like accommodations. Memberships for those younger than 18 are $10; 18-53 are $25; and older than 54, $15. Write American Youth Hostels, 733 15th St. NW, Suite 840, Washington, D.C. 20005. (800) 444-6111.

Private homes, B&Bs: For $15 per night and up you can get out of the tourist bubble and see European life close-up. Best bet is to go through the national tourist office of the country you are visiting. If you are already in the country, consult the local tourism office for a list of good homes.

Hotels: Most European hotels are covered by strict codes that rate their accommodations and require posting of prices. Skip one-star and unrated hotels; they're not worth the hassle of the savings. Two-star hotels are a good bargain, but expect small rooms and some noise. Three-star hotels are usually what most Americans are used to back home. Four-star and above will give you niceties at a hefty price.

A place to eat: If breakfast is included in your hotel price, take it. If it's a supplement, skip it. Eat down the street at the stand-up coffee shop or the corner cafe where the locals eat.

Lunch: Skip restaurants. Go to the local market and buy salami, bread, mineral water, wine and fruit. Go to a park and have a picnic.

Dinner: Look for the words prix fixe. The set-price menu is really the only way to stay on a budget.

Miscellany:

Don't exchange money at a hotel. You'll get a better rate at a bank; better still, use ATM machines - just like at home - which offer an even better rate of exchange. Check with your bank as to availability of these machines where you are traveling and that your access code will work overseas (some machines only take four numbers). Some bank personnel are not as up on this as they should be; insist on specific answers.

Save money when calling home by using the ``call home'' service of your telephone company. Many hotels charge large surcharges for placing a call.

If you must drive, look into leasing - if you are traveling for three or more weeks. Kemwel Group (800-678-0678) offers direct-from-the-factory-to-you lease plans beginning at $589 for 22 days. A bonus is that the plan is good for drivers as young as 18, and there are other values if booked by March 31. MEMO: Alan Solomon of the Chicago Tribune, Jerry Morris of the Boston Globe,

and Gary Warner of the Orange County (Calif.) Register contrubuted to

this report.

by CNB