THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, March 23, 1995 TAG: 9503210099
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
LENGTH: Medium: 84 lines
Executive Chef David Lapinski continues to adjust and refine the menu at the Riverwalk, the Omni Waterside Hotel's undiscovered gem of a restaurant.
With its panoramic view of the working waterfront - and in warm weather, tables set on the veranda overlooking the harbor - the Riverwalk has the potential to revisit the prestige of the Omni's fabled Esplanade, which had the restaurant scene abuzz some 18 years ago, when the hotel first opened.
Not that the Riverwalk features the fancy, fussy service the Esplanade offered back then. Open and airy, the atmosphere today is casual, with the restaurant offering three meals a day, every day, as a hotel eatery must, including a Sunday brunch buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and a weekday luncheon buffet.
The hotel caters to large groups and conventions, so you might see businessmen and women having a power lunch or dinner, visiting sales or military people talking shop, or a group from a convention of phys-ed teachers or engineers.
The current evening menu at the Riverwalk offers 10 entrees, reflecting the experience and interests of Lapinski, who has worked the Northeast, New Orleans and in San Francisco. Nine of the 10 entrees are new, with the sole survivor from last fall being the Steak Au Poivre, a pepper-crusted sirloin, sauced with brandy and a veal glace, and served with herb-roasted red potatoes and market vegetables ($15.25).
``We really streamlined the menu for the wintertime, when there is less tourism and less banquet business,'' Lapinski explained. ``My intent was to simplify it but offer enough variety to attract people for a second and third visit. The best sellers so far have been the Pork Loin Medallions and the Norfolk Union Grill, but over the course of the week, it all sells well.''
I tried the Norfolk Union Grill ($17.50), which consists of a pair of New Zealand lamb chops, a medallion of chicken, some Gulf shrimp and a Surry sausage, with cottage fries and fresh vegetables. The lamb was tender, and combining a slice of sausage and a slice of the chicken on a fork worked well, with the rich taste of the Surry sausage calmed by the marinated chicken.
Julie had the Caramelized Salmon Filet ($13.50), an impressive serving of bronzed salmon in a light broth flavored with saffron, olive oil, fennel and leeks, and served over lemon and black pepper linguine. We started our meal with a fine chicken and andouille sausage gumbo ($3.50), and risotto with roasted winter vegetables (with seasoned broccoli, anise, wild mushrooms, leeks, dried tomatoes and bell peppers - $4.50).
Other appetizers include a grilled barbecued shrimp quesadilla of spiced shrimp and bell peppers with melted jack and Cheddar cheeses on a grilled tortilla ($4.95); calamari, lightly fried and served with a Sicilian-style sauce ($5.50); and the Grilled Texas Antelope Terrine ($4.95), one of two uses of game on the menu, the other being an Herbed Risotto and Pheasant Sausage entree ($10.50), which I have tried on another occasion and found very flavorful and not gamy at all.
``I've found that game usually sells better in appetizers,'' Lapinski explained. ``That way people can try it to find out if they like it, without risking their entire meal. Rabbit, even venison, sells better that way.''
Other entrees include Jerked Jumbo Shrimp (grilled and topped with a hot and sweet tropical relish, served with stir-fried vegetables and jasmine rice - $20.25); a Crawfish and Shrimp Etouffee (with steamed aromatic rice - $12.75); a broiled tuna steak and a grilled filet mignon medallion ($16.50); and the Seared Pork Loin Medallions (``lean generation'' Smithfield pork with a whiskey maple applesauce, herb-roasted red potatoes and market vegetables ($12.95).
The Omni Waterside has been undergoing an extensive renovation over the winter, including a new look for the ballrooms. With the addition of Chef David Lapinski, a little more than a year ago, the hotel, which was once queen of the waterfront, seems poised for a monster comeback. MEMO: AT A GLANCE
Omni Waterside Hotel's Riverwalk: 777 Waterside Drive; 622-6664
Food: Traditional breakfast items, Sunday brunch, weekday lunch
buffet, as well as light entrees; nouvelle-American cuisine in the
evening, with a Cajun-Creole and local influence.
Prices: dinner entrees $10.50 to $20.25.
Hours: Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner; dinner served till
10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. on Friday and
Saturday. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
David Lapinski is the executive chef at the Riverwalk, located
inside the Omni Waterside Hotel.
by CNB