THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, March 23, 1995 TAG: 9503220017
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F6 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A LA CARTE
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 93 lines
IT'S SOUTHERN, but it's Hollywood. It's old-fashioned, but it's up-to-the-minute.
The decor at Animation, 972-A Laskin Road in Virginia Beach, beams with bright greens, reds, blues and purples. Comfy padded booths have an old-fashioned look, while mighty mushrooms with fish-tank stems look very '90s.
Co-owner Andy Stein collects cartoon art; his framed Bart Simpsons and Road Runner grace the walls.
Chef Eddie Whedbee, Stein's partner, just came home from seven years on the Other Coast, where he catered to stars as executive chef at the Hollywood Athletic Club.
The partners both are Virginia Beach natives.
Whedbee's wife, Jenny, is the graphic artist whose theatrical motifs grace almost every corner, notably the ersatz theatrical curtain surrounding the open kitchen in the back of the restaurant.
Open for dinner only (from 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday) since Feb. 1, Animation showcases a menu even more eclectic than the setting.
We sampled a well-prepared special of roasted chicken breast slices with tricolored broad noodles and roasted vegetables. From the menu, we tried hearty vegetarian chili and cornmeal-crusted oysters with sauteed spinach. The menu also listed old-time Southern catfish, meatloaf, chicken and dumplings, and pot pies, as well as new American dishes like lobster dumplings, salmon with sherry-peanut glaze and smoked tenderloin of beef with wild mushroom ragout. Homemade desserts bring the evening to a rich end. Call 491-3252.
Oceanfront trio
Three East at the Jetty is making waves at the Schooner Motel, 215 Atlantic Ave. in Virginia Beach, which once housed Crawdad's Cafe and, more recently, the Big Tomato.
The latter changed hands in February, when Mike Atkinson and Cory Beisel, who also own the nearby Five-01 City Grill, sold the Tomato to Bill Graessle, Monica Purkey and Michele Davis - all formerly of Chick's Marina Oyster Bar in Virginia Beach.
The trio has renovated the Oceanfront eatery, raising a portion of the floor to improve the view in back and adding beachy tones of coral, green and blue.
The casual mood matches the menu of oysters, mussels and shrimp, fresh fish on sandwiches and platters, pasta combinations, chicken, and two sizes of steak. Hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Call 425-3278.
Wine and waves
If you're interested in preserving our coastlines and waterways, stop by Hot Tuna, 2817 Shore Drive in Virginia Beach, around 7 tonight.
For the second year, the restaurant is having a wine tasting, hors d'oeuvres and music to raise funds for the Surfrider Foundation. All proceeds and tips will go to the national preservation organization.
For a $25 ticket, you'll sample from among more than 20 wines. Featured wineries will include Ravenswood, Q.C. Fly and Frog's Leap from California; Wolf Blass from Australia; George DuBoeuf from France; and Banfi from Italy. Flights of premium California wines will be available for $4 a glass.
You'll also get to snack on cheese, crackers and fruit or can roll your own sushi, and you'll be eligible to win a custom surfboard by Bill Frierson of Wave Riding Vehicles. There'll also be acoustic alternative music from Falstaff. Tickets can be purchased at the door. For information, call 481-2888.
Homesteading
A mushroom hunt, a barbecue and cooking demonstrations are scheduled for the Spring Food and Wine Festival at the Homestead in Hot Springs, Va., March 31 to April 2.
A bonus for locals: Todd Jurich of Norfolk's Bistro! will stir up his oyster stew with garlic mashed potatoes and a salad of foie gras brulee on frisee lettuce.
Other notable Southern chefs invited: Louis Osteen of Charleston, S.C.; Jimmy Sneed of the Frog and the Redneck in Richmond; and Jeff Buben from Vidalia in Washington, D.C.
Cost for the weekend is $800 a couple and includes accommodations, wines, meals and receptions. For reservations, call toll-free: (800) 838-1766, Ext. 1.
Mahi mixup
To make reservations at Mahi Mah's in Virginia Beach, call 437-8030. In the March 2 a la Carte, we listed an unstaffed number. Also, because the restaurant frequently updates its menu, some diners were disappointed that pork chops with caramelized onions are no longer served. If you're interested in Lean Generation pork, try some of Mahi Mah's other options, available three meals a day. Included is smoked pork slices with poached eggs on sweet potato biscuits at breakfast - a sort of Virginia yam and oinks Benedict. MEMO: Send restaurant news, along with your name and a daytime phone number,
to a la carte, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave.,
Norfolk, Va. 23510, or send e-mail to dreiss(AT)infi.net.
by CNB