The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, March 30, 1995               TAG: 9503290039
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F6   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: A LA CARTE 
SOURCE: Donna Reiss 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   89 lines

GREAT IN-PASTA WILL FEEL LIKE HOME

RALPH BALSAMO and Gennaro Castiglione have left their New York homes and restaurants to bring southern Italian food to the Oceanfront, at the Great In-Pasta, 2914 Pacific Ave.

Many years ago, the building was home of the Golden Dragon and more recently the short-lived Mr. Yee's and Beefeaters. The space has been redecorated for an early April opening.

Abundant family-sized portions will be the Great In-Pasta's trademark, the owners say. Platters from the open kitchen will make the place seem like home, Balsamo adds, and every dish will be large enough to share.

You can dine alone, of course: Try a half-portion of made-to-order baked clams, stuffed artichokes, pasta with clam sauce, and a variety of other dishes. Call 428-5400.

Sunday smarts

The Dumbwaiter in downtown Norfolk knows audiences leave Sunday matinees with an appetite for new Southern cooking.

Now open from 4 until 10 p.m. Sundays, at least through the start of summer, Sydney Meers' eclectic eatery at 117 Tazewell St. serves both small courses and complete meals.

During a recent visit, a light white-bean ragout was topped by a gently herbed hunk of tuna fillet, topped in turn by a homemade cracked-pepper-pecan cracker. It made a substantial snack or starter (for $4.85) and perfect companion for a glass of the house-label Dumbtraminer. Call 623-FOOD.

Party on the Pier

Lynnhaven Fish House, 2350 Starfish Road in Virginia Beach, will launch the Pier Cafe atop Lynnhaven Fishing Pier in April. The casual setting will serve 35 diners inside and 30 outside, from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily.

Chef Joseph Zaremski of the main restaurant is designing a menu of snacks, sandwiches, salads and assorted new American treats ``with a Mediterranean flair,'' from $2.95 to $11.95. Entertainment is planned for weekends in winter, nightly in summer. Call 481-0003.

Wine from Chile

The wines of Chile will be featured at a five-course dinner at Le Chambord, 324 N. Great Neck Road in Virginia Beach, beginning at 7 p.m. April 4. Wine expert Debi Atkins will speak about her recent trip to the Chilean vineyards.

Guests can dine on avocado mousse with Chilean asparagus, light fish soup with scallops, salmon with Merlot sauce, filet of beef and homemade vanilla ice cream with tropical fruits. Accompanying wines include Concha y Toro Merlot Blanc, Casillero Cabernet Sauvignon, and Marques Casa Concha Chardonnay.

Tax and gratuity are included in the $55 ticket; reservations are essential. Call 498-1234.

Under the chef's hat

Enjoy elegant lunches at the Dining Room at Ford's Colony, 240 Ford's Colony Drive in Williamsburg, where award-winning executive chef David Everett offers three more in a series of four specialty midday meals.

Scheduled themes:

June 21 - ``What's Up Doc? Vegetarian Cuisine, Better Than Rabbit Food.''

Sept. 20 - ``One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish, Blue Fish.''

Dec. 6 and 7 - ``What to Serve If the Grinch Stole Christmas.''

Each lunch with a glass of wine is $21.95; call 258-4100 for information and reservations.

Bully buffet

Celebrating its 10th year on Baltic Avenue near 30th Street in Virginia Beach, the Beach Bully serves a $9.95 barbeque buffet on Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 6 to 9 p.m. On the groaning board are chicken, baby-back ribs, pork barbecue, smoked sausage and assorted side dishes.

The all-you-can-eat feast is likely to be suspended in the summer. Owner Rick Waskey also caters picnics and parties. Call 422-4222. MEMO: Send restaurant news, along with your name and a daytime phone number,

to a la carte, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, 150

W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510, or send e-mail to

dreiss(AT)infi.net.

ILLUSTRATION: ROY BAHLS

Staff file photo

Sydney Meers' Dumbwaiter in downtown Norfolk is now open Sundays,

with small courses and complete meals available from 4 to 10 p.m.

by CNB