THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, April 2, 1995 TAG: 9504040476
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: CHAIN REACTION
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 99 lines
CHILI'S GRILL & Bar, on Virginia Beach Boulevard across from the Beach central library, takes the typical informal atmosphere of chain restaurants and makes it even more relaxing.
The menu is simple, the prices are low and the food is good.
The dining area is not overwhelmingly large. The staff was unrushed and friendly when our party of four dined there one recent Sunday evening.
All the children's entrees (hot dogs, spaghetti, grilled cheese) are a flat $2.79, drink included, and the kids get to keep their beverage cups.
As its name implies, Chili's emphasizes Southwestern food, but many other dishes are on the menu, including country-fried steak, Philly cheesesteak sandwiches and fried catfish for those not watching calories. Five low-fat entrees also are listed under ``Guiltless Grill.''
We started with three appetizers: a bowl of chili with beans ($2.69), quesadillas ($4.99) and a basket of baby-back ribs ($4.29).
The chili was Texas-style - cubed beef cooked tender plus spices and beans. (Not all Texans like beans, and you can order the chili with meat only.) If you find the concoction a little mild, ask for a bottle of Tabasco.
The quesadillas were good; the ribs were superb - meaty, tender and coated with a sweet-spicy sauce.
Our entrees consisted of steak fajitas ($7.99), a chicken Caesar salad ($5.99), a ``guiltless'' chicken salad ($5.79) and the Baja tacos ($5.99), which are flour tortillas filled with charbroiled tuna and condiments.
The fajitas were top-notch. The beef was tender and marinated to perfection. In fact, the mouth-watering, sauteed-onion aroma that permeates Chili's is from the sizzling fajitas, which appear to be one of the more popular orders.
The Caesar salad combined chunks of grilled, marinated chicken breast with the romaine lettuce, grated cheese, lemon juice, garlic and croutons.
This salad could have used more Caesar flavor. It was a little bland, although the chicken had a nice flavor. Chili's is just right on its meat marinade.
The ``guiltless'' chicken salad mixed the chunks of breast with greens, pico de gallo, kidney beans, sprouts, scallions and a no-fat Southwest dressing.
It was definitely on the light side but we didn't care for the no-fat dressing. Some no-fat things just don't taste very good. The server substituted the house herb dressing, which was an improvement.
The Baja tacos tasted delicious and were a bit more innovative than fare found in many chains. The tuna chunks were accompanied in the tortilla by cabbage, pico de gallo and grated cheese.
Chili's might try improving its side dishes. The rice with Southwest seasonings was dry and salty. The spicy pinto beans were soupy.
We split two desserts: raspberry cheesecake ($3.29) and Key lime pie ($3.29). Both were excellent although Key lime pie doesn't need the raspberry sauce Chili's includes with it. Fortunately, the restaurant puts the sauce at the bottom of the plate, not on the slice of pie. MEMO: Reviews of chain restaurants with stores in Hampton Roads are based on a
single, unannounced visit by a party of two or three, unless otherwise
noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for the reviewer's
meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
At Chili's Grill & Bar on Virginia Beach Boulevard, the menu is
simple, the prices are low and the food is good.
Chicken fajitas are a popular item at Chili's, which also serves
non-Southwestern dishes such as Philly cheesesteak sandwiches.
Photo
ROY A. BAHLS
Chili's waiter Jeff Moye readies tables before the hungry diners
arrive.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Chili's Grill & Bar: 4085 Virginia Beach Blvd., Virginia Beach.
431-2663.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to
midnight Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Entree salads from $5.69 to $5.99; sandwich and burger
platters from $4.99 to $5.99 (bacon extra with some sandwiches);
``Guiltless Grill'' (low fat) from $5.79 to $7.49; other entrees
from $4.99 (veggie tacos) to $9.99 (strip steak).
Reservations: Not accepted, but you may call ahead to get on the
waiting list.
Smoking: Allowed around the lounge and bar area, but restricted
to six or eight tables in the dining section.
Owned by: Brinker International of Dallas, which owns or
franchises 324 restaurants, including one each in Virginia Beach and
Hampton.
by CNB