THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, April 16, 1995 TAG: 9504180509
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY R. MARK KOZAK, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: EDENTON, N.C. LENGTH: Long : 160 lines
GO AHEAD, leave home without it. You won't need your American Express card in Edenton; you can shop on the honor system in this quaint old town.
At least that's the case at Neat Pieces antiques. Lately, owner Paul Aycock has not been well, so he sometimes leaves his shop unwatched.
Still, a sign in the window indicates the store is open for business. Some old chairs, baskets and bric-a-brac line the wooden porch. The door is locked, but a handwritten sign explains the policy.
``If you wish to purchase anything in front of shop, please push money or check under door and add 6% sales tax.''
OK, sure; no problem . . . wink, wink.
``We have had, knock on wood, very, very little problem with people not being totally honest about the money,'' says Paul Aycock's wife, Jon, who also helps run Leigh House, a bed-and-breakfast in town. ``About the biggest thing to disappear was the ugliest Mr. and Mrs. Santa Claus you've ever seen, around Christmas.''
The honor system is unusual but not unprecedented in Edenton, says Phyllis Pepper, another local innkeeper.
``In the fall, there is a house on Queen Street that sells pumpkins,'' she says. ``There is a permanently attached heavy can with a slot in the top to drop in your money. Too much!''
That about sums up Edenton. It's Mayberry revisited. You'll never actually see Andy, Barney and company there, but you'll meet their ideological kinfolk.
Billed as ``North Carolina's prettiest town,'' Edenton has more than its share of beautifully restored 18th and 19th century homes. The downtown shopping district, featuring early 20th century architecture, boasts thriving businesses along a wide main street with diagonal parking and landscaped walks ending at Edenton Bay.
But the real story of Edenton is its 5,200 people, whose values are deeply rooted in the town's proud history and culture.
The face of Edenton wears an easy-going smile that says ``Welcome.'' It greets you on the streets and in the shops.
This friendly atmosphere - and the smell of talcum powder - permeate White's Barber Shop. The small square, cement building has been a place to get a ``man's haircut'' for 70 years, but it looks out of place on a street lined with historic homes.
Inside, co-owner Jimmy Byrum, 48, looks as if he has climbed right out of a barbershop quartet. Clip, clip here; clip, clip there. His movements take him on a 360-degree dance around a customer's chair.
``This is just an old-timey barbershop,'' Byrum says. ``Don't mention beauty parlor around this guy. It gets him all riled up.''
``This guy'' is Jimmy Lewis, 57, the other co-owner.
``Where else can you get a $6 haircut?'' boasts Lewis.
While it may not make economic sense to travel to Edenton for a haircut, there are more than a few other reasons.
For tourists and locals alike, downtown is the place to shop. The nearest Wal-Marts are 30 miles in each direction. So here is everything you need, from food to pharmacy, antiques to boutiques, movies to a pub, and even Edenton's version of a general store - a combination hardware, rental outlet, gift shop and craft store.
Everyone seems to know everyone else.
``You don't say anything bad about anybody to anybody,'' says Bill Pepper, husband of Phyllis. ``You never know who might be related.''
The Peppers, transplanted New Yorkers, own and run Captain's Quarters Inn.
The first weekend in April was the last of the inn's seasonal ``Mystery Weekends.'' From October to April, couples who opt for this $239 package are offered down-home hospitality, outstanding home cooking and large, comfortable rooms. Park your car at the inn and leave it there. Cleverly versed clues to solving a scripted murder mystery lead you around town on a scavenger hunt.
Shopkeepers have a little fun, too. Some hand over the clues at the asking; others have the clues hidden amid the merchandise. And most of the rookie gumshoes leave the shops with more than just the next riddle.
For women, the shopping district features Chloe's, JoVon Fashions, Marion's Boutique and Shaftesbury's Fine Furnishings.
For men, it's Fame Men's Shop. At the counter, Betty Bateman brags about the shop and its relationship with the townspeople.
``The locals get personal service here,'' she says. ``They can take home two or three suits - just to try on.''
Next door at Mitchener's Pharmacy sits John Mitchener, retired druggist. The bow-tied former mayor of Edenton knows the old building and town pretty well. His father moved the pharmacy to this location in 1914, the year John was born. Now, the youngest Mitchener generation runs the place.
A couple of blocks down is Blounts Mutual Drugs, which still sells pop for a quarter at its old-fashioned soda fountain.
It won't make you forget The Chrysler Museum, but Edenton's Chowan Arts Council Gallery adds a cultural aspect to the town's charm. Most of the works are by local artists in a variety of media. Much of the art is for sale, at a rather pricey sum.
And not far from the gallery is the Historic Edenton Visitor Center, another refurbished old home complete with the obligatory gift shop and a wealth of information. Tours of the town are conducted from this venue, and a narrated slide presentation surprises you with the historical significance of Edenton's once-booming shipping port.
Revolutionary leaders such as Samuel Johnston, Joseph Hughes and Hugh Williamson called Edenton home. The town was named after Charles Eden, a Colonial governor who died in 1722. Plaques throughout town direct visitors to historic sites, including St. Paul's Church (1736), home to an active Episcopal congregation.
On Queen Street and King, on Broad Street and Church, on Freemason and Dickinson, on Eden and Court, signs on the lawns date and name the homes - Wessington House, Pembroke Hall, the Homestead, H.C. Privott House. No tract homes here; these places were built to last.
A public park provides an expansive view of Edenton Bay, an offshoot of Albemarle Sound. It was the wealthiest early settlers who nabbed the best real estate along the water. These grand historic homes, adorned with wrap-around porches, tin roofs and enough gingerbread trim to keep Sherwin-Williams in business, are still occupied.
And yes, as the town's name might suggest, there's even a garden in Edenton - a formal one at the Cupola House museum.
Warmth, charm and sincerity abound in Edenton. Leave 20th century cynicism at home some weekend and step into the town's wide-open heart.
You'll like it.
Honest. ILLUSTRATION: BRENDA KOZAK COLOR PHOTO
Captain's Quarters, a bed-and-breakfast inn, offers a mystery
weekend as well as other packages.
Map
ROBERT D. VOROS/Staff
Graphic
TRAVELERS' ADVISORY
Before you go: The Historic Edenton Visitor Center, (919)
482-2637, can send you information on accommodations, dining, tours
and special events.
Getting there: From Hampton Roads, take I-64 to Route 17 south
(Elizabeth City exit). Follow Route 17 to Elizabeth City, then about
another 30 miles. Easy way into town is to take last Edenton exit.
Turn left onto Route 17 business (West Queen Street) and follow it 3
to 4 miles into town.
Getting around: If you are staying at an inn in town, you won't
need your car once you are there. Walking is easy, and some inns
offer bicycles to guests - with no need for locks.
Bed-and-breakfast inns: Captain's Quarters Inn, eight rooms;
Lords Proprietors' Inn, 20 rooms; Granville Queen Inn, 9 rooms;
Governor Eden Inn, four rooms; Trestle House Inn, four rooms; and
Leigh House, one room.
Special events: Edenton Pilgrimage (Friday and Saturday, see
details), Colonial Heritage Days (Wednesday and Thursday), Crape
Myrtle Festival (July 29), Chowan County Fair (Sept. 25-30), Peanut
Festival and sailboat regatta (Oct. 7), Christmas Candlelight tour
of homes (Dec. 8-9).
EDENTON PILGRIMAGE What: A glimpse inside historic homes in
town and in the countryside.
When: Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with a break for
lunch.
Tickets: $22, includes Tour of Homes, Antique Show and Craftsman
Guild. $18, just for Pilgrimage Tour. Shuttle service to
countryside included in ticket price. Make reservations through
Edenton Woman's Club, (800) 775-0111 or (919) 482-8965. Group
discounts available; no refunds.
Also: Art Show and Sale at no charge, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday
and Saturday; and Choral Festival, 8 p.m. Saturday, $5 admission.
by CNB