THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, April 27, 1995 TAG: 9504250123
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 16 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: On The Town
SOURCE: Sam Martinette
LENGTH: Medium: 80 lines
Maude's, located in the second floor of the Town Point Center, is one of the hidden treasures of downtown Norfolk. As cozy as a country kitchen, with its black and white tile floor, baskets hanging chock-a-block, and a rack of cookbooks along one wall, the 92-seat eatery is decidedly modern in its selection of art, as in the abstract by Sydney Meers that dominates the entryway, and in owner Heather Whitehead's choice of healthful recipes.
``I use all non-fat cheeses as much as I can,'' Whitehead explained. ``We cook with olive oil and use fresh herbs and fresh fruit. We make everything from scratch, because I hate can openers.'' So much so that she has that sentiment printed on her business cards.
In business at Maude's for roughly two and a half years, Whitehead steadfastly refuses to open at night because of her extensive catering business. ``Friday night we have a rehearsal dinner here,'' she said last week by way of explanation, ``then we have the wedding Saturday night at the Beach. Even though this is a pretty room at night, all lit up and the tables set with linens, I open only on special occasions, such as Valentine's Day.'' Maude's is open mornings to provide bagels, muffins and coffee to the building's office occupants, but lunch is the busiest time of day, and it isn't unusual to find both dining rooms filled with downtown workers.
I couldn't resist trying a buffalo burger ($4.95), which the menu proclaims is lower in fat than chicken. Served with tomato and pepper relish and mashed potatoes, the meat was indeed less fatty than ground beef, with no hint of gristle. I had never eaten buffalo before, and found it much milder than I expected. Julie tried a special of broiled catfish served over mashed potatoes with asparagus and broiled red and yellow peppers.
The specials range from the low of $4.95 (for such as chicken and dumplings with bread) to $6.95, but most are in the $5.50 to $6.50 range, I'm told. An example would be broiled salmon with a cranberry clove sauce and roased potatoes, or a broiled chicken breast topped with a spinach tomato cream sauce, over mashed potatoes, with fresh vegetables on the side.
As for the regular menu, soups include spinach with feta, garlic and yogurt (cup, $2.95; bowl, $3.95), a fresh tomato basil ($2.75/$3.75) and a large bowl of black beans over rice ($3.50). Salads include the ``Down Under Salad'' of smoked turkey on a bed of wild rice, tossed with honey roasted walnuts and garnished with fresh fruit ($5.25), and one we tried, the ``Mediterranean,'' a rich blend of roasted chicken salad with red and yellow peppers, artichokes, grilled purple onions, roasted potatoes and olives, tossed with feta, parsley, basil, and laced with a mustard vinaigrette ($5.95), which was a meal in its own right.
Sandwiches range from smoked turkey with havarti cheese and homemade potato salad ($4.95); an open-faced roasted eggplant smothered in onions, peppers and mozarella cheese, then baked and garnished with fresh basil ($4.25); a tuna melt with tomato and Cheddar cheese, also served open-faced ($4.25); to a variety of burgers (including turkey and beef), as well as homemade egg and tuna salad sandwiches.
Customers may order half of any sandwich ($2.95), or might want to try the homemade veggie lasagna ($5.50), with artichoke, spinach, mushroom and eggplant (and cheese, of course), which is served with a garden salad.
The food at Maude's is crisp and clean, the atmosphere is open and cheery as one of Heather Whitehead's ``G'day mate!'' greetings from her native Australia. And if you insist on having dinner there, then you might want to rent the place for a private dinner of your own. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
Owner Heather Whitehead, chef Richard Phillips, center, and waiter
Richard Belote serve breakfast and lunch.
AT A GLANCE
Maude's: 150 Boush Street (Town Point Center); 640-7120.
Food: bagels, muffins, etc.; lunch of soups, salads, sandwiches,
specials and pasta; ABC, beer and wine only.
Prices: All menu items under $5; most specials $5.50 to $6.50;
cash and check only; free delivery to downtown and surrounding
area.
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., weekdays.
by CNB