The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, April 30, 1995                 TAG: 9505010201
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY MARY FLACHSENHAAR, SPECIAL TO SUNDAY FLAVOR 
                                             LENGTH: Long  :  204 lines

BUILDING A BETTER PANTRY\ HERE'S HOW TO HAVE FOOD ENOUGH TO SEE YOUR FAMILY THROUGH DISASTER OR DROP-IN GUESTS.

WHEN THE tortilla chips are just crumbs and the cereal has been reduced to dust, Mom waits for the inevitable wail.

One by one, the four of them stand in front of the pantry she thought was so well-stocked. One by one, each whines: ``There is nothing to eat in this house.''

Spinach to that.

Mom knows this proud pantry could sustain the family for days.

It's not that she's so clever; it's that she knows where the can opener is stored.

She knows if you mix tuna with mayo and chopped celery, you'll get tuna salad. She knows if you're hungry for dessert when the cookie jar is empty, you reach for the brownie mix and a baking pan.

Compared to the planting, foraging and hunting a hungry person had to do a few centuries ago, this seems simple.

But maybe it's not.

How do you buy for, organize, use and maintain a pantry for the fast-paced, health-crazed, cost-conscious '90s? What do you keep on hand to turn out a meal on a moment's notice?

We asked home economists Doris Trant and Faye Taylor of the Virginia Cooperative Extension to help us build a better pantry - one that would see the family through potentially disastrous events, such as hurricanes and power outages, drop-in company and daily after-school snacks.

And guess what? It wasn't hard, after all.

Trant and Taylor's advice:

The pantry should be in the coolest, driest part of the kitchen, away from the oven and the refrigerator exhaust. Storing foods in plastic containers with tight-fitting lids helps keep out insects and moisture.

When shopping for the pantry, reject cans that are severely dented, dented at the seams, leaking or bulging at the ends. A small dent not at the seam is OK.

Keep a shopping list going at all times. Without a list, the likelihood of accumulating two dozen cans of tomato paste or going wthout black pepper for weeks increases.

Plan menus before you shop. You might already have the can of water chestnuts that tonight's casserole calls for.

Make the freezer and refrigerator extensions of your pantry. Keep a frozen supply of boneless, skinless chicken breasts, ground beef in one-pound portions and packs of frozen vegetables. In conjunction with nonperishables from the pantry, these ingredients can be transformed into casseroles, stir-fries, pasta sauces and soups. When dicing onion and green pepper for tonight's recipe, dice extra and store it in the freezer. Keep the refrigerator stocked with eggs, milk, cheese, fruit and salad fixin's - all useful supplements to pantry items.

Collect recipes that can be made or almost made from pantry ingredients. With an appropriately stocked pantry, these recipes can be pressed into service when there's no time to shop, or when the weather's too bad to set foot outside. Many pantry recipes are offered at the end of this story. Other sources are food magazines and cookbooks that emphasize speed, ease, convenience. Back-of-the-box recipes often are simple, dependable skillet or one-dish meals.

Don't assume you can't make a salad if you're out of lettuce, tomato and fresh fruit. The pantry can yield a nutritious alternative, such as flavored gelatin blended with canned fruit or a mix of several types of canned beans seasoned and chilled. Those trendy pasta salads have humble pantry beginnings.

Use a pantry-storage system that will be convenient for everyone in the household. The kids should be able to reach the cereals and peanut butter. Seldom used items, like fancy vinegars and sauces, can reside on a high shelf.

Coupons are available on many pantry items. Use them sensibly, always with an eye to the size of your storage space, the pace at which you are likely to consume an item. A bargain backfires when you have to throw out unused food that has spoiled.

Maintain a first-in, first-out inventory system: When you add to your supply of canned tomatoes, put the newly purchased cans behind the older ones.

Keep your pantry in step with the times. Processed foods used to be high in fat, salt, sugar and calories. Now we have more healthful alternatives. Buy the low-fat, low-sugar, low-salt and low-cal versions of canned and packaged goods. Use whole-grain breads, cereals, crackers. Buy canned tuna packed in water and evaporated skimmed milk. Make lots of room on the pantry shelves for foods in the grain-pasta-cereal category.

Keeping the pantry neat and organized as you go makes it function better and minimizes the amount of work you'll do when you deep-clean. Spills and sticky jars should be cleaned immediately. During the recommended yearly spring clean, shelves should be vacuumed (often the best way to get at those crumbs) and scrubbed. Toss out-of-date items.

Don't store onions and potatoes in the same bin. Each gives off a gas detrimental to the other.

While white sugar and white flour seem to last indefinitely when stored in plastic containers with tight-fitting lids, most other pantry items have a shorter lifespan. (See box, this page.)

ILLUSTRATION: KEN WRIGHT/Staff

Graphics

HOW LONG IS IT GOOD?

Here are some maximum recommended storage times, under optimum

conditions:

Whole spices - two to five years

Ground spices - six months to two years

Oil and shortening - can be stored in pantry for three months.

For longer storage, refrigerate.

Dry pasta - one year

Canned goods - one year

White rice - 1 year

Brown rice, wild rice - four to six months

Whole-grain flour - refrigerate.

Cornmeal - 4 to 6 months

Peanut butter - can be stored in pantry for two months. For

longer storage, refrigerate.

Cereals - 3 months.

For more information on storage, call the Virginia Cooperative

Extension, Norfolk office, 683-2816; Virginia Beach office,

427-4769; Chesapeake office, 547-6348; Suffolk office, 925-6409.

A PANTRY TO BE PROUD OF

This clip-and-save list is not gospel, just a guideline. If you

don't bake, many of the following ingredients can be eliminated. If

you do lots of ethnic cooking, for instance, you'll probably want to

stock more spices, vinegars and grains.

Breads

Breadcrumbs

Crackers

Cereals

Oats

Flour, all-purpose, self-rising, cake

All-purpose baking mix

Cornmeal

Sugar, granualted, powdered, brown

Baking powder

Baking soda

Yeast

Cornstarch

Baking chocolate

Unsweetened cocoa

Nuts

Raisins

Honey

Molasses

Corn syrup

Maple syrup

Vegetable oil

Olive oil

Solid shortening

Vinegar

Peanut butter

Jelly, jam

Salad dressings

Mustard

Ketchup

Mayonnaise

Pickles

Relish

Worcestershire sauce

Hot-pepper sauce

Soy sauce

Lemon juice

Dry sherry

Salsa

Salt

Pepper

Bouillon cubes or powder

Spices: dry mustard, bay leaves, basil, oregano, parsley, sage,

rosemary, thyme, poultry seasoning, dill, chili powder, cumin,

paprika, curry, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice

Vanilla extract

Coffee

Tea

Canned evaporated milk

Canned, bottled juices

Rice

Pasta

Gelatin, plain and flavored

Pudding mixes

Canned chili

Canned stew

Canned tuna

Canned chicken

Canned vegetables

Canned mushrooms, for casseroles

Canned tomatoes, whole, stewed, pureed, paste, sauce

Dry beans

Canned beans

Canned fruit

Applesauce

Canned broth

Canned soups, for eating

Canned creamed soups, for casseroles

Canned chopped chilies

Grated Parmesan cheese

Potatoes

Onions

Garlic

Snack foods, such as cookies, popcorn, pretzels, chips

Convenience items, such as cake mixes, macaroni-and-cheese mixes,

pizza and other main-dish kits

by CNB