THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 7, 1995 TAG: 9505050238
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 12 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY PAUL SOUTH
STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: KILL DEVIL HILLS LENGTH: Medium: 96 lines
THINK OF GREAT Italian food, and the rich aromas of the eateries of Boston's North End come to mind. Think of a great deli sandwich, and it's the taste of hot pastrami, slathered in mustard, served at a multitude of spots in New York.
But as with everything in life, there are tradeoffs. In New York, there's great pastrami. But there's a better-than-even chance you'll suffer verbal abuse by obnoxious counter help.
In Beantown, wait persons can sometimes be more than a little snotty. And cabbies who transport you to a wonderful plate of veal parmigiana will sometimes try to jack up fares on seemingly unsuspecting out-of-towners.
But right here on the Outer Banks, you can get a great sandwich, wonderful Italian specialties and decadent desserts. All without the hassle, hustle and bustle of a big-city restaurant.
The place?
Petrozza Deli and Pasta Shop.
We visited Petrozza on a recent lunch hour, and were greeted by a wondrous garlic-laced smell and the music of Mozart. The Petrozza menu, complete with specials that change daily, invites diners to linger as they make their selections.
The newly expanded Petrozza, for the first time in its five-year history, has seating for 45 patrons.
``After about a year, we had a number of customers who said it would be great if we had a place for people to sit,'' said Brooklyn-born owner Lou Petrozza. ``We finally were able to work it out.''
One of the great things about Petrozza is that the staff doesn't push you to make a choice. With such an expansive menu, it pays to take your time.
My companion chose tortellini in a cream pesto sauce ($6). The pasta was cooked just right, while the pesto sauce was light and flavorful.
I had the veal cordon bleu parmigiana ($6.95), an interesting blend of pasta, veal, ham and Swiss cheese in a tomato-based sauce.
For culinary purists who might cringe at this mix of French and Italian, trust me, this works. Big time.
Petrozza also features a wide variety of salads and meatless entrees for vegetarians. Salads can be added to any entree for 99 cents.
The restaurant also has an expanded list of wine and beer selections, and a variety of soft drinks. We washed our delicious meals down with Snapple lemonade.
One word to remember: Petrozza gives more than ample portions. Prepare to ask for a ``doggie bag.''
But the crowning moment in a lunch filled with great food was the dessert. We chose the homemade sour cream brownies (75 cents each). The brownies were rich and flavorful. I added a steaming cup of Costa Rican coffee ($1.50). For fans of great java, this one is a keeper. Petrozza also features a variety of specialty coffees.
Petrozza also features a variety of sandwiches, ranging from $3.75 to $7. Continental breakfast items are served from 7:30 to 10 a.m.
The service at Petrozza is some of the best we've had anywhere. The staff is friendly and attentive.
``That's the thing that makes our place special,'' Petrozza said. ``I tell our people that without them, this place is just a big pile of metal and wood and glass. The doors would be locked up, and there would be nothing here. If we have a good day, everybody has a good day. And on the days things don't go so well, it's that way for everybody. The success we've had belongs to everyone here.''
First-time visitors to the restaurant should take a little extra time to browse through the deli, with its wide selection of meats, cheeses, pasta and sauces, and other specialty items. For folks who love food with a cosmopolitan flair but enjoy the laid-back style of the Outer Banks, Petrozza should be high on the list. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Kim Epps of Petrozza serves Jim and Marie Gardner of Nags Head.
``This is one of our favorite places on the beach,'' says Gardner, a
former lieutenant governor.
PETROZZA DELI AND PASTA SHOP
Where: 1712 N. Croatan Highway (U.S. Route 158 bypass), Kill
Devil Hills in the Dare Centre strip mall.
Phone: To place an order (919) 441-2519. For daily specials (919)
441-1642.
Prices: Entrees $5.75 to $8.50; sandwiches from $3.25 to $8.50.
Salads, desserts, fresh baked bread and other specialty items are
available.
Seating: Room for 45.
Drinks: Fountain soda, bottled soft drinks, beer and wine
available.
Credit cards: Not accepted. Cash and local checks only.
Handicapped Accessible: Yes.
by CNB