THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 14, 1995 TAG: 9505120225
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 08 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY JOHN HARPER
CORRESPONDENT
LENGTH: Long : 107 lines
Manteo is my kind of town, especially the downtown area with its perfect blend of tradition and progress.
Sir Walter Raleigh Street and Budleigh Street are the main drags in downtown Manteo, a unique community on Roanoke Island that recalls quieter times.
Things move slowly here. The speed limit is 20 mph, but often walkers on the sidewalks on both sides of the two streets appear to move faster than the traffic.
Walking is the way to travel in downtown Manteo. So bring some comfortable shoes and discover first Sir Walter Raleigh Street.
Turn-of-the-century houses line the upper half of the street. Around the homes are azaleas, camellias and lillies. Keep an eye out for cardinals, hummingbirds, wrens and woodpeckers. And the street is full of pear, pecan and oak trees.
At the corner of Uppowoc and Sir Walter Raleigh is one of the oldest homes on Roanoke Island, recently opened as The White Doe Inn. The home, built in 1896, served as the home of the Meekins family for over 80 years.
Bob and Bebe Woody, a pair of park rangers, bought the property in 1993 and built their dream house. After a few setbacks, the bed-and-breakfast opened April 29. So far, so good, Bob Woody says.
``People really like the idea that they can walk around,'' he says. ``They feel safe here. Everything you need is within walking distance.''
Farther down Sir Walter Raleigh Street is Essex Square, a three-story structure built in the 1890s. At various times, the building housed a barber shop, an ice cream parlor and Manteo's first elementary school.
The building was renovated in 1979 by Manteo architect John Wilson IV, and four ground-level rooms are now the home of Manteo Booksellers. Expect the unexpected at this bookstore, which features a deep inventory, especially in regional books and fiction. The ``Beats'' section is particularly impressive - Jack Kerouac is represented with such titles as ``Lonesome Traveler,'' ``Satori in Paris'' and ``Desolation Angels.'' Pick up a newsletter or attend one of the dozens of author signings and readings that are scheduled this summer.
Wilson had a hand in most of downtown Manteo's renovation. He maintains the quaint Roanoke Inn on Fernando Street, just off the downtown area. It's a bed-and-breakfast with a splendid view of Shallowbag Bay.
Just outside the bookstore is a park bench.
A man can think here. A couple of minutes on the bench and you're spouting, ``Life is like a box of saltwater taffy.''
Just a few feet from the bench is the Dare County War Memorial. The names of 22 Dare County men killed in combat are carved in a stone monument.
Walk another 50 yards and find Outer Banks Outdoors and Poor Richard's Sandwich Shop. Outer Banks Outdoors manager Phil Broder recently moved here from Chicago. He's glad he made the switch.
``It's all the little things,'' he says. ``Like Gene at the post office knowing my name.''
To the right of his building are the relatively new Waterfront Shops that house several specialty stores and Clara's Seafood Grill.
Behind the buildings is Shallowbag Bay, surrounded by several hundred yards of boardwalk. All along the boardwalk are more benches, where you can sit and watch the birds and boats. Next to the Waterfront Shops building is a playground, with a swingset and picnic tables.
Across a short bridge from downtown is Ice Plant Island, home to the Outer Banks History Center. The center has an extensive collection of books, recordings, manuscripts, photographs and maps of the Outer Banks.
The Elizabeth II sailing ship has its home on Shallowbag Bay. Built largely by hand, the 70-foot representative 16th-century ship is open for tours in season. The ship leaves the harbor in the spring and fall.
The Dare County Courthouse, built in 1904, is another point of interest. Many of the county offices are still located there. When Roanoke Island resident Andy Griffith filmed an episode of his ``Matlock'' TV show on Roanoke Island in 1989, many of the scenes were shot in the courthouse.
Across the street is the Tranquil House Inn, modeled after an old hotel that stood near here from the 1860s to the 1950s. The inn features the 1587 Restaurant.
On Budleigh Street, look for one of North Carolina's oldest movie theaters: Ye Olde Pioneer Theatre, built by the Creef family in 1934. Somebody forgot to tell manager H.A. Creef that times have changed. It'll cost you $3 to get in for the daily 8 p.m. show.
Once inside, soft drinks will cost you 30 cents, and a bag of regular popcorn sells for 40 cents. Don't look for any violent or sex films; only the family fare finds favor here.
Also on Budleigh Street is the Dare County administration building, which was originally the Fort Raleigh Hotel. You'll also see more turn-of-the-century homes on this street.
The Mt. Olivet Methodist Church is on Budleigh Street. Built in 1888, the first services were held in 1889. The church was completely renovated in 1984 and is renowned for its magnificent stained glass windows.
Between Budleigh and Sir Walter Raleigh Streets, on a brick walkway, is Reynolds Barber shop. It's a one-chair operation, and C.L. Reynolds has been cutting hair for more than 40 years. Floyd on ``The Andy Griffith Show'' has nothing on Mr. Reynolds. Both men are witty and wise.
If you're visiting the Outer Banks, make the drive to Manteo. But plan to make a day of it. This place has a way of tugging at you and never letting go. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Frances and James Wyrick of Greensboro, stroll along the Manteo
waterfront where walkers often exceed the 20 mph speed limit for
vehicles.
by CNB