THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 14, 1995 TAG: 9505160485
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: CHAIN REACTION
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 92 lines
DINERS CAN'T seem to get enough of the Olive Garden.
The Italian fare served at the restaurant has been a phenomenal success.
Consider that the national chain has grown from 173 restaurants in 1990 to 467 today. Locally, the count has increased to five with the recent addition of an outlet in Hampton.
In terms of restaurant qualities - service, food and atmosphere - the Olive Garden is a cut above most chains.
Be prepared to wait for a table. During the dinner hour, a 15-minute wait is typical. Reservations are not accepted. On a recent Sunday evening, we waited nearly half an hour at the restaurant outside Lynnhaven Mall in Virginia Beach.
Entrees at the Olive Garden are a bit more expensive than at some chains but portions are large and prices include unlimited salad and garlicky, olive-oil-slathered bread sticks.
Servers are equipped with takeout containers, which can be quickly assembled at the table to handle leftovers for those who don't want to overeat.
The chain has added several ``Garden Fare'' dinners with low-fat contents, but diners counting calories might avoid some appetizers and the bread sticks, which are delicious - and waist-thickening.
For openers, we ordered the bruschetta misto ($4.50) and the Italian sampler ($5.95).
The bruschetta misto is six slices of grilled bread topped with fresh diced tomato and basil, sun-dried tomatoes and olives or an artichoke-spinach spread. With a salad, this appetizer could be a meal.
The Italian sampler was fried and included stuffed mushrooms, ravioli, cheese and zucchini. It was OK but seemed more basic chain fare than subtle Italian.
In previous visits to the Olive Garden, we've found the food bland. This is still true for some entrees but not all of them.
Our main dishes were fettuccine chicken Florentine ($9.50), chicken Giardino ($7.95), shrimp primavera ($12.50) and the evening's steak special ($9.95).
The night's big surprise? The steak. The 6-ounce slab of beef was high quality, cooked rare and accompanied by fettuccine Alfredo and lightly sauteed vegetables.
We also gave the shrimp primavera high marks. The shrimp was cooked with mushrooms, onions, pepper and tomato sauce and served over angel-hair pasta. It was sufficiently herbed, spiced and garlicked.
The fettuccine chicken Florentine was bland, however. A little more garlic in the fontina cheese sauce might help.
The chicken Giardino got mixed reviews. A Garden Fare low-cal entree, it consists of sauteed chicken, farfalle pasta and vegetables. The predominant seasoning seems to be fennel, a licorice-flavored herb.
It probably boils down to whether you like fennel. Some of us did, some didn't. The staff said the chicken is one of the most popular entrees.
For dessert, we ordered two white chocolate, raspberry truffle cheesecakes ($3.75 each). They were as good as they sound.
The evening's service was quick and professional. The best entrees are very tasty. Check with your server or read the menu carefully to avoid the more mundane selections. MEMO: Reviews of chain restaurants with stores in Hampton Roads are based on a
single, unannounced visit by a party of two or three, unless otherwise
noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for the reviewer's
meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: RAY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Chicken Giardino features red bell pepper, broccoli, farfalle pasta
and cream sauce.
There are 467 Olive Garden outlets nationally, including this one
outside Lynnhaven Mall.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Olive Garden: 683 Lynnhaven Parkway, Virginia Beach. 486-8234.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11
p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Pasta and sauces, $6.95 to $8.45; specialty pastas, $6.95
to $9.95; other entrees, $7.45 to $13.25.
Owned By: General Mills established the chain but Darden
Restaurants takes over ownership on June 1. Five restaurants are in
Hampton Roads.
by CNB