THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 21, 1995 TAG: 9505180073
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY JIM RAPER, SPECIAL TO SUNDAY FLAVOR
LENGTH: Medium: 60 lines
THE CHALLENGE to the kitchen at The Downtown Club of Richmond was laid down the day before my dinner appointment:
I wanted the chefs to take the freshest ingredients on hand and prepare for me a multi-course meal that showed the range of their inspiration and talent.
Executive chef David McNamara and assistant David Stewart were more than happy to oblige. General manager William Rice, who is a wine buff, said he would choose good-value wines to accompany the meal.
The three men, each of whom got his start in restauranting in Norfolk, promised their best efforts. And they didn't disappoint.
Course one: creamy corn chowder with cilantro and bacon. This light green soup, smooth except for crunchy bits of applewood smoked bacon, was superb. ``Some beautiful fresh corn came in, and that was the inspiration,'' said McNamara.
Course two: salmon in orange sauce with ginger. Stewart, who was in charge of preparing the meal, loves citrus flavorings and the orange sauce was a highlight of this dish. The sauce was made with a white wine and shallot reduction with ginger and fresh thyme, orange juice and a finish of cream and butter. The salmon fillet, which was smoked lightly and then baked, was moist. It was topped with crispy fried strips of leek and ginger. Delicious.
Course three: mixed baby greens with goat cheese and slow-baked marinated tomato wedges. The goat cheese had been dusted with crushed pinenuts and lightly baked. The tomatoes, Stewart explained, are the plum variety halved lengthwise, marinated in balsamic vinegar and herbs, and then baked in a 250-degree oven for three to four hours. The tomatoes and everything else in the salad were quite good.
Course four: herb-crusted lamb chops on creamed potatoes and petite filet mignon with grated horseradish. Side dishes were marinated and grilled portabello mushrooms, ratatouille and asparagus spears. Again, preparation was interesting and flawless.
Course five: phyllo pastry with filling of apple, mango and papaya, topped with caramel sauce. The light and crunch pastry made this a relatively light dessert. The caramel sauce was very good.
The wines Rice chose were from the California winery, Cedar Brook. The 1993 Chardonnay Napa Valley, which has tropical flavors and a trace of vanilla, was served through the early courses and the smooth, young 1993 Merlot California was served with the meat course. Each wine sells at the club for about $18.
The wine list, recently updated by Rice, includes a smattering of premium French wines (Chateau Talbot 1985 at $45). Better represented are California producers. Rice said the most popular chardonnays at the club recently have been those of Markham, Sterling and Cuvaison ($24 to $26). Also popular have been the Kenwood Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) and Jordan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($36).
Appetizers on the dinner menu are priced at $7 and $8 and entrees range from $11 to $20. MEMO: Jim Raper, a free-lance writer and Sunday Flavor wine columnist, lives
in Zuni, Va. by CNB