THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Friday, June 2, 1995 TAG: 9506020521
SECTION: FRONT PAGE: A1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY DEBBIE MESSINA, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: VIRGINIA BEACH LENGTH: Long : 193 lines
Stately bald cypress trees, some 600 years old and draped in blankets of Spanish moss, spring from tea-stained pools, sheltering a world all their own.
Two painted turtles leisurely share a log with a water snake, basking in sunlight dappled by the trees' gangly branches. The dark, glassy water is momentarily rippled by the broad head of a skink.
The tranquil silence of this protected habitat, tucked away in the northeast corner of the state's most populated city, is broken only by the occasional rhythmic knocking of a woodpecker or melodic call of a songbird.
This is nature's paradise. It's also the most popular state park in Virginia.
Seashore State Park and Natural Area, which is undergoing a name change to First Landing State Park, occupies an oasis of 2,900 acres sandwiched between intensely developed areas of Virginia Beach.
Long before a concrete wall of high rises rimmed the resort strip, before cottages dotted every open parcel at the North End and neighborhoods and strip shopping centers sprang up along the Chesapeake Bay, the state knew there was something special about Seashore and took steps to preserve it.
That was nearly 60 years ago. Thirty years ago, the U.S. Department of the Interior recognized it as a Registered Natural Landmark, an honorary designation.
On Saturday, the park will mark that anniversary by offering a number of opportunities to explore its natural beauty as well as celebrate National Trails Day.
The park's 1.2 million annual visitors - who hike and bike along wooded trails, camp among the sand dunes and frolic on the beaches - triple the numbers of any other state park. You can expect to be turned away at the gates on a nice weekend if you don't arrive early enough to find one of 450 parking spaces for daytime visitors.
``It's like being in the wilderness,'' said Bill Magnusson, a Norfolk restaurant manager who recently visited the park for the first time. ``It's like you're out in the country, but in the city. It's amazing especially knowing what the nearby strip looks like.''
Helen Qammar, of Akron, Ohio, has traveled hundreds of miles nearly every summer for 32 years to camp at Seashore.
``It's not like they've got the world's most modern facilities, because they don't,'' she said, doling out M&Ms to her 4-year-old and 1 1/2-year-old boys in front of the camp store. ``But it's so beautiful here. They've got a little bit of everything.''
Despite its high usage and proximity to intense development, Seashore has managed to maintain its pristine qualities.
``We're known for our natural beauty, abundance and diversity,'' said Fred Hazelwood IV, park manager.
The park boasts one of the most diverse plant and animal communities on the East Coast because it sits on a natural border where northern and southern species mingle.
The park's Spanish moss, an endangered species in Virginia, represents the last big stand this far north.
The park is the northern limit for several species of water snakes and the southern limit for the endangered scarlet king snake. American beach grass reaches its southernmost point here. And the live oaks that grow among the dunes grow no farther north.
A bio-inventory conducted in 1990 revealed that there are 600 species of plants in the park. Plus, there are 37 rare or threatened species of plants and animals.
For example, it's the only spot in Virginia where you can find the endangered chicken turtle. The turtle gets its name from its long neck, which is nearly as long as its shell when extended. Its meat also reportedly tastes like chicken.
Seashore also is the only place in the universe where you can find a pin-head-sized bug officially named the ``Virginia Beach bug.''
Traversing the park from end to end, you can experience a variety of terrain, from the sandy shores along the Chesapeake Bay, to hilly sand dunes, to dunal swales with cypress pools, to maritime forests, to marshes rich in green bamboo along Broad Bay.
The highest natural points in southeast Virginia can be found among Seashore's ancient 75-foot sand dunes. Thousands of years ago, these dunes were built up by the wind and waves of the Chesapeake Bay.
It's almost like hiking from the ocean to the mountains and back, all within a few miles.
These natural wonders can be taken in by hiking the 19 miles of trails Seashore has to offer. Only one, the 6-mile Cape Henry trail, is open to bikers.
The bald cypress nature trail is a marked, 1 1/2-mile trail abundant with bridges spanning mysterious cypress pools. It is the most hiked trial in Virginia, because of its manageable length and abundance of bald cypress and Spanish moss.
Another popular one is the Osmanthus trail, named after the wild olive tree that grows along its path. It has a primitive boardwalk, without handrails, over a wetland that allows hikers to experience a sensitive natural area that normally could only be reached wearing waders.
One of the most beautiful areas of the park, White Hill Lake, is also one of its least-visited spots because it requires a roundtrip hike of 3 to 3 1/2-hours. The lake is home to a heron rookery.
There are many ways to experience the park: 235 campsites with picnic tables and grills along the beach; 20 air-conditioned cabins in the natural area; a large picnic area near the visitor center; and a public boat launch and small beach at the 64th Street narrows.
The Chesapeake Bay beach is open only to campers during peak months for security and crowd control reasons.
``We're preserving Virginia's unique natural history, and our recreational opportunities are being preserved as well,'' Hazelwood said.
As the bulk of our population has settled in urban areas, Hazelwood said, it's important to provide public access to natural areas to educate and enlighten them. He calls it ``recreational learning.''
``Experiencing nature is getting to be an unnatural experience for people,'' he said. ``We don't have a relationship to the natural world like we used to when most people lived on farms.''
The more people are exposed to and educated about our environment, Hazelwood believes, the better stewards they will be of the land and its resources.
``We focus our attention on how to help visitors use the area responsibly,'' he said. ``We share with them a conservation ethic - not just what to do but why we do it.''
But the state has sometimes been criticized for allowing too much visitation and for altering the landscape to accommodate people. The critics fear people will stress the natural resource.
Hazelwood admits some damage has occurred, but he adds that steps have been taken to remedy the situation. For example, hikers sometimes leave the marked trails, carving new trails and smashing plants. In response, the park has re-vegetated the damaged areas and has erected wood rails to keep people out.
Recently, 11 area outdoor organizations adopted the park's trails and Broad Bay waterfront, agreeing to keep them clean and provide regular maintenance on a quarterly basis.
Seashore has nearly reached its attendance capacity, as parking is limited and cars are often turned away at the gate on weekends.
``There's a mutual existence,'' said Vickie Shufer, a noted local naturalist. ``Even though there's a lot of visitation, the natural environment is still able to survive.'' ILLUSTRATION: Color staff photo by D. KEVIN ELLIOTT/
Cypress trees blanketed in Spanish moss are among the attractions at
the 2,900-acre Seashore State Park, which is undergoing a name
change to First Landing State Park. On Saturday the park will
celebrate its 60th anniversary, as well as National Trails Day. For
a complete schedule of events, see page A8.
Staff map
Area shown: Seashore State Park
Graphic
SATURDAY'S CELEBRATION
First Landing/Seashore State Park and Natural Area is celebrating
National Trails Day as well as the 30th anniversary of being
designated a Registered National Natural Landmark. Here's a schedule
of Saturday's events:
8 a.m. - Bird walk with the Virginia Beach Audubon Society.
10 a.m. - Nature walk with a Seashore State Park volunteer.
10:30 a.m. - Walk the Osmanthus Trail with the Tidewater Appalachian
Trail Club.
10 a.m., 11 a.m., noon - Canoe tour with Wild River Outfitters.
Noon and 1 p.m. - Learn about outdoor equipment, safety and trail
etiquette with Blue Ridge Mountain Sports.
2 p.m. - National Trails Day ceremony at Visitor Center.
3:30 p.m. - Nature walk with Seashore State Park volunteer.
8 p.m. - Night walk with Seashore State Park volunteer.
All walks are limited to 25 people and begin at the Visitor Center.
The canoe tours, at the Narrows at the end of 64th Street, are
limited to 12 people. Canoes and safety equipment are provided.
To register, call 481-4836. Parking fees apply for all events.
Fees and reservations
For general information about the park, call 481-2131 or 481-4836.
No admission fee is charged, however parking costs $2.50 per car
from Memorial Day to Labor Day. An annual parking pass is $20.
Boat launching costs $6, or $45 for an annual pass.
Virginia residents 62 or older are eligible for a Golden Age pass,
which waives all park fees.
For camping or cabin fees and reservations, call 1-800-933-PARK.
KEYWORDS: SEASHORE STATE PARK NAME CHANGE by CNB