THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 4, 1995 TAG: 9506010091
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Long : 163 lines
A perfect location for people who want to dine with an ocean view but avoid the bustle of the resort strip, Three East at the Jetty opened this March in the space that has been home to such popular dining rooms as Crawdad's and the Big Tomato.
Bringing years of experience at Chick's Oyster Bar to their new venture, Michelle Davis, Bill Graessle and Monica Purkey have redecorated the space with beachy salmon and teal, elevated one section to improve the view for diners in the back of the house, and tossed shell-motif cloths on the tables for a casual look. They have added about 60 seats on the new patio, the best spot for watching surfers and boaters near the jetty.
The origin of the restaurant's name, Three East at the Jetty, has three explanations, Graessle says: the Rudee Inlet jetty, the Third Street sign in front, and the trio of partners.
Raw bar and steamed items were the highlights of the menu on several visits since the cafe opened. One quiet March afternoon, for example, I sat on the edge of the boardwalk with an exceptional selection of freshly shucked oysters and cocktail sauce spiced with just enough horseradish. On a May evening, two companions and I enjoyed an assortment from the steamer, attractively priced at $6.95 for the Queen Neptune portion that satisfied two as a starter and would have made a meal for one; a King Neptune portion is $13.95. Clams, oysters, mussels and shrimp were nicely seasoned - not overwhelmed with cayenne - along with red peppers, carrots and red onions.
From three soups listed we sampled two, Chincoteague clam chowder and Bill's oyster stew. The Manhattan-style chowder was disappointingly devoid of clams and thick with what tasted like canned tomatoes. A better choice was the oyster stew, made to order with a touch of bacon to give it a slightly smoky scent but not as abundant with oysters as we had hoped.
Dinner included bread and salad, a light white baguette good for sopping sauces, and a fair blend of leaf lettuce with cucumbers, carrots and cherry tomatoes. Blue cheese and ranch dressings were good; raspberry vinaigrette was a poorly balanced mix with flavorless oil.
Dinner choices emphasize seafare, of course, but do include a Delmonico steak, grilled mesquite chicken, a burger and a turkey sandwich. We decided on two seafood specials and a menu selection of crawfish cake sandwich. This version had little recognizable crawfish and not much Louisiana flavor despite the menu's claim that the recipe came ``straight from the Bayou.'' The slaw was tinged with vinegar, a refreshing change from mayonnaise-laden sauces.
We were more satisfied with chalkboard offerings. While the grilled mahi-mahi was unremarkable, its topping of spinach with crab and feta cheese was very tasty, giving life to the dish. Herb-grilled red potatoes were a fresh-tasting accompaniment. Another special combined scallops, shrimp, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes with sauce needing more distinctive flavorings to harmonize the flavors and to dress the pasta.
Dessert brought a better-than-usual key lime pie, firm and golden in a graham cracker crust. The airy texture of angel cake brought a light end to an early summer dinner. In contrast was a huge slice of rich chocolate mousse pie.
New to the job, our server in shorts and T-shirt graciously sought information from her more experienced colleagues when we asked questions.
California dominated the baker's dozen nonsparkling wines, most available by the glass for less than $4.
Despite the whimsical calligraphy of the logo that looks from a distance like Beast on the Jetty, this new restaurant at the southern tip of the boardwalk inspires comfort rather than terror. Good raw bar and steamed selections, comfortable casual atmosphere, long hours and enthusiastic staff already making improvements suggest that Three East is worth watching. And valet parking makes it easy for locals to give it a try.
A perfect location for people who want to dine with an ocean view but avoid the bustle of the resort strip, Three East at the Jetty opened this March in the space that has been home to such popular dining rooms as Crawdad's and the Big Tomato.
Bringing years of experience at Chick's Oyster Bar to their new venture, Michelle Davis, Bill Graessle and Monica Purkey have redecorated the space with beachy salmon and teal, elevated one section to improve the view for diners in the back of the house, and tossed shell-motif cloths on the tables for a casual look. They have added about 60 seats on the new patio, the best spot for watching surfers and boaters near the jetty.
The origin of the restaurant's name, Three East at the Jetty, has three explanations, Graessle says: the Rudee Inlet jetty, the Third Street sign in front, and the trio of partners.
Raw bar and steamed items were the highlights of the menu on several visits since the cafe opened. One quiet March afternoon, for example, I sat on the edge of the boardwalk with an exceptional selection of freshly shucked oysters and cocktail sauce spiced with just enough horseradish. On a May evening, two companions and I enjoyed an assortment from the steamer, attractively priced at $6.95 for the Queen Neptune portion that satisfied two as a starter and would have made a meal for one; a King Neptune portion is $13.95. Clams, oysters, mussels and shrimp were nicely seasoned - not overwhelmed with cayenne - along with red peppers, carrots and red onions.
From three soups listed we sampled two, Chincoteague clam chowder and Bill's oyster stew. The Manhattan-style chowder was disappointingly devoid of clams and thick with what tasted like canned tomatoes. A better choice was the oyster stew, made to order with a touch of bacon to give it a slightly smoky scent but not as abundant with oysters as we had hoped.
Dinner prices included bread and salad, a light white baguette good for sopping sauces, and a fair blend of leaf lettuce with cucumbers, carrots and cherry tomatoes. Blue cheese and ranch dressings were good; raspberry vinaigrette was a poorly balanced mix with flavorless oil.
Dinner choices emphasize seafare, of course, but do include a Delmonico steak, grilled mesquite chicken, a burger and a turkey sandwich. We decided to maintain the waterside mood with two seafood specials and a menu selection of crawfish cake sandwich. Unfortunately, this version had little recognizable crawfish and not much Louisiana flavor despite the menu's claim that the recipe came ``straight from the bayou.'' The slaw on the side was tinged with vinegar, a refreshing change from the mayonnaise-laden sauces that often come with shredded cabbage salads.
We were more satisfied with chalkboard offerings. While the grilled mahi-mahi was unremarkable, its topping of spinach with crab and feta cheese was very tasty, giving life to the dish. Herb-grilled red potatoes were a fresh-tasting accompaniment. Another special combined scallops, shrimp, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes with sauce needing more distinctive flavorings to harmonize the flavors and to dress the pasta.
Dessert brought a better-than-usual key lime pie, firm and golden in a graham cracker crust. The airy texture of angel cake brought a light end to an early summer dinner. In contrast was a huge slice of rich chocolate mousse pie.
New to the job, our server in shorts and T-shirt graciously sought information from her more experienced colleagues when we asked questions.
California dominated the baker's dozen nonsparkling wines, most available by the glass for less than $4.
Despite the whimsical calligraphy of the logo that looks from a distance like Beast on the Jetty, this new restaurant at the southern tip of the boardwalk inspires comfort rather than terror. Good raw bar and steamed selections, comfortable casual atmosphere, long hours and enthusiastic staff already making improvements suggest that Three East is worth watching. And valet parking makes it easy for locals to give it a try. ILLUSTRATION: ROY A BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Crawfish cakes are made from ``a recipe brought straight from the
Bayou.''
The outdoor patio is a great spot to watch Boardwalk, beach and
ocean goings-on.
ROY A. BAHLS PHOTO
Bill Graessle and Michelle Davis bring years of experience into this
prime spot.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Three East at the Jetty: 215 Atlantic Ave. (Schooner Motel),
Virginia Beach,
425-3278.
Cuisine: Seafood raw bar and steamed items, mostly seafood main
dishes plus a few pastas, a burger, a steak and a chicken dinner;
full children's menu.
Atmosphere: Comfortable casual oceanfront cafe with salmon and
teal walls, bright tablecloths, and an elevated section to improve
the water view from the back of the restaurant. Patio seating and
valet parking available.
Prices: Starters, soups, salads and sandwiches $3.75 to $7.50;
main dishes $9.95 to $16; desserts $2.75 to $3.75; children's menu
averages $3.
Hours: Breakfast Saturday and Sunday 7:30 to 10:30 a.m. (daily
starting mid-June), full menu 10:30 a.m. to midnight or later.
Reservations: Suggested weekends.
Smoking: Bar and outdoors only.
by CNB