THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 4, 1995 TAG: 9506010221
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 15 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY LANE DEGREGORY, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: OCRACOKE LENGTH: Long : 102 lines
OFF THE ONLY beaten path in this cedar-shaded, seaside village, surrounded by a grove of yellow-capped cactus, an oasis of continental cuisine surprises many visitors to this Outer Banks island.
The Back Porch Restaurant opened 11 years ago. Outside, with its wide, wooden-railed walkways and breezy, open-air dining room, the one-story structure appears similar to most barrier island eateries. But the menu harbors an enticing array of unusual offerings not readily found even in much more cosmopolitan settings.
On the isolated island, inaccessible except by free ferry, John and Debbie Wells have created an extraordinary combination of seafood and other specialties ranging in style from French to Caribbean to gourmet Southern.
Diners wear shorts and sandals to dinner.
But their taste buds are treated to a black-tie feast.
A group of friends and I sat down for supper in the huge screened porch last month. Without a reservation - which aren't accepted - we were certain we'd have to wait for the owners to find room for a party of nine. We arrived about 6 p.m. We were ordering within 15 minutes.
Early evening appeared the perfect time to eat at the Wells' restaurant, with light winds wafting across the linen-covered tables and black ceiling fans slowly diffusing the sunset in long, shifting shadows.
We began our meal with an original offering: crab beignets ($6.50) and a sampling of three other appetizers. Although everything was tasty - and beautifully presented - the consensus was clear: The crab was the best concoction by far.
Two pastry-sized crepes, lightly fried and formed into crisp, golden shells, cradled a scrumptious combination of Atlantic blue crab claw meat, cream cheese and Worcestershire sauce. Fresh, minced garlic and a sprinkling of dried tarragon leaves spiced up the mild seafood considerably. On the side, a Dijon mustard sauce - flavored with Tabasco - offered additional zest to add according to individual appetites. The hot, creamy crab, adorned with mustard and lemon wedges, was the most wonderful aspect of the entirely enjoyable fare.
Before the main course was served - while we were still enraptured with the appetizer - our waitress brought a basket of steaming, home-baked bread to the table. Raisin pumpkin muffins; small sourdough loaves; and thin-sliced, walnut, whole-wheat bread made with honey, molasses and sunflower seeds all were flavorful and fantastic. A ramiken of whipped butter sat alongside, superfluous to the already moist, delicious breads.
Entrees come with a choice of homemade soup or huge Ceasar salad at The Back Porch. The night we ate out, each meal also had a mound of long-grain rice and a medley of carrot and squash shavings on the side. I selected the soup: tomato and cheddar. Thick, with whole tomato chunks, slivers of onions, celery slices and fresh herbs swimming through the rich broth, the big bowl was topped with just-picked parsley.
For supper, my husband chose crab cakes ($16.50) and I ordered pasta ($16.95). Both plates' portions were plenty for two. We each took home an enormous bag filled with the best food our dogs have ever been allowed to eat.
Big as hamburgers, and thicker than most club sandwiches, the two crab cakes were bursting with backfin lump meat, perfectly cleaned and shell-free. Mixed only with onion, red pepper, flour, cream and butter - with no bread or other filler added - they were sweet, luscious and barely browned. Red pepper sauce, flavored with garlic, shallots and tiny green onion rings, flowed in a colorful, slightly spicy pool around the delicately garnished plate.
The pasta was piled at least four inches high. Skinny snakes of fresh angel hair, tangled and tossed in a light oil glaze, were smothered by a dozen fat, steamed shrimp and rings of Greek olives. Chunks of feta cheese, fresh tomatoes and pine nuts burst forth with every forkfull. Fresh cilantro, parsley and other herbs added a hint of just-grown garden to the seafood. Each bite was a tasty delicacy of textures and tastes.
Dessert was superior. The single slice of chocolate raspberry torte ($3.75) looked slim beneath a thick stream of raspberry sauce. But after one bite, I realized that the richness went a long way. Dense, heavy, with a solid chocolate top, the cake itself was spongy and moist. A bittersweet chocolate glaze dribbled across the outside, adding an interesting contrast to the sticky sweet raspberry spilled around the plate. Three of us sampled the tantalizing torte. A single bite was enough to thoroughly satisfy.
We'll all return to Ocracoke soon - if only to spend one more scrumptious summer evening on the Back Porch. ILLUSTRATION: At the Back Porch Restaurant, which has been in operation for 11
years, John and Debbie Wells have created an extraordinary
combination of seafood and other specialties ranging in style from
French to Carribean to gourmet Southern.
Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
THE BACK PORCH
Where: Ocracoke Island.
Phone: 928-6401.
Prices: Dinner entrees $11.95 to $17.95; light-fare plates from
$5.95 to $6.95; vegetarian offerings available.
Drinks: Wine, beer, non-alcoholic wine and beer, soft drinks,
iced tea, coffee.
Credit cards: VISA, MasterCard.
Handicapped accessible: Yes.
Reservations: Not accepted.
by CNB