THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 18, 1995 TAG: 9506150045
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 84 lines
ARCHER RUFFIN'S family has roots in Charles City County, where Indian Fields farm once was inhabited by Powhatan tribes.
When Ruffin opened his contemporary-traditional Southern restaurant in 1987, he converted an abandoned residence to a wayside tavern, its burgundy cloths, dark green wood trims and fresh flowers re-creating the welcoming mood of the days when horse-drawn carriages traveled the route now known as John Tyler Highway.
Not far from the James River plantations and about halfway between Williamsburg and Richmond, Indian Fields Tavern provided us with a relaxing dinner last month. We were as delighted by the food as by the setting, a modern American blend of Colonial fare like Sally Lunn bread, with 20th century trends like blackened shrimp and scallops.
Whatever combination of cheeses was brought together for the savory cheesecake appetizer, the result was a beautiful balance of flavors with a sharp accent, the texture an almost-airy mousse. Pan-seared scallops on Japanese seaweed came lightly dressed with lemon thyme beurre blanc, a study in contrasts with the soft sweet shellfish contrasting the gelatinous strands of seaweed and the delicate butter sauce.
The simplicity of a polenta cake was an excellent backdrop for pan-fried oysters with shiitake mushrooms. Untried was a smoked shrimp starter.
Free-range meats are promoted here, notably a grilled venison tenderloin wrapped in applewood smoked bacon. Both the venison and the bacon were exceptional, the meat cooked just on the pink side of medium to tender perfection, the bacon infused with a sweetly smoky scent. A demiglaze tinged with blackberries and oregano harmonized with the combination.
Veal scaloppine came with crawfish and prosciutto in a garlicky sauce, good but not so exciting as the venison. Crab cakes Harrison presented Southern fare at its richest and finest: topping a thick slice of egg-rich Sally Lunn toast and a slice of flavorful Smithfield ham, a fat crab cake was well-seasoned. The hollandaise sauce was almost excessive with this tasty blend except for the touch of lemon it brought.
Other dinner listings from chef team Mark and Debbie Hallett were pan-roasted chicken with garlic, caramelized onions, and herbs; grilled breast of duck on crisp potato cake; a 6-ounce filet mignon with a crab cake and tomato bearnaise; and rack of lamb with goat cheese and fig sauce. That's modern and traditional enough to bring us back to this wayside next time we're on the way to Richmond.
To accompany these dinners came a fine assortment of well-prepared vegetables, crisp seasonal asparagus, roasted new potatoes, and cooked carrot shoestrings. And every table received sliced Sally Lunn bread to nibble throughout the meal. Two wine lists, a basic and a reserve, provided choices in a wide range of prices, mostly from California and Virginia; the reserve list featured French bordeaux and burgundies.
We decided to end as we had started, with cheesecake, this time a white chocolate-macadamia-nut sweet that was the best of the dessert trio we tried. Chocolate pecan pie and lemon chiffon cake were fine but not so exciting as the cheesecake. For the hour-and-a- half ride back to Norfolk, we felt well-fed and well-treated by our gracious and helpful waitress.
Open for lunch with salads, sandwiches, and small main courses as well as for Sunday a la carte brunch, Indian Fields is a pleasant stop on Route 5, worth a little detour if you're in the area. Although reservations aren't required, they are advised. ILLUSTRATION: Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Indian Fields Tavern, 9220 John Tyler Highway (Route 5), Charles
City. (804) 829-5004
Cuisine: Southern traditional and contemporary.
Atmosphere: Colonial tavern ambience in a converted farmhouse
surrounded by farmland.
Prices: Lunch from $4.95 to $11.95; Sunday brunch from $5.95 to
$12.95; dinner starters from $3.95 to $8.50; main dishes from $12.95
to $24.95; desserts from $3.25 to $3.95; children's portions on
request.
Hours: Lunch and Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; dinner
from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; from 5 to 10 p.m. Friday
and Saturday.
Reservations: Recommended for dinner.
Smoking: on porches and 15 percent inside.
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