THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 18, 1995 TAG: 9506170036
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E5 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY GREG RAVER-LAMPMAN, TRAVEL CORRESPONDENT
LENGTH: Long : 105 lines
SYRIA'S archaeological ruins are so numerous it's impossible to detail them all in anything shorter than a book. In a month in Syria, I skimmed the surface. If you have a limited amount of time, you might focus on a particular historical period. Here are some highlights, organized by era. BRONZE AGE
In southern Syria, along the Euphrates, lies the royal city of Mari. Discovered in 1933, Mari was first settled 2,900 years B.C. and formed a hub between the fertile lands of Mesopotamia and the plains of Syria.
At Mari, archaeologists discovered an archive in Babylonian cuneiform detailing the rich commercial life of Mesopotamian merchants. Ruins include one of Syria's best-preserved Early Bronze Age palaces. Equally interesting is Mari's sophisticated irrigation system or stone troughs that channeled water throughout the city. Near the throne room, archaeologists discovered a statue of a goddess holding a vase from which water flowed into a fountain. The statue is now in the Aleppo Museum.
In central Syria, the most important Bronze Age site is the fabled city of Ebla, probably the most important site discovered since World War II. Historical documents hade made reference to the kingdom of Ebla, but its existence wasn't confirmed until 1975 when Italian archaeologists uncovered an archive consisting more than 16,000 cuneiform tablets.
Ebla, a Bronze Age metropolis, reached its peak about 4,400 years ago. Although much remains to be excavated, climbing the partially uncovered city wall gives visitors a sense of Ebla's size and commanding position.
Along the Mediterranean Coast lie the remains of the ancient port city of Ugarit, which flourished more than 4,000 years ago. Excavated over the last 50 years, Ugarit ranks as one of world's most stunning archaeological sites. Its well-preserved ruins include homes, a palace, a fountain, ancient stonework and vaulted tombs.
Ugarit, whose merchants needed to speak and write in many languages, developed one of the world's first alphabets. Before phonetic writing was developed, thousands of cuneiform symbols were required to represent unique concepts. Ugarit merchants whittled the thousands of symbols to just 30, each representing a sound much like modern alphabets. ROMAN AND BYZANTINE
The oasis kingdom of Palmyra in central Syria may be one of the world's most stunning collections of Roman era ruins. Palmyra, a natural resting point in the harsh desert between the Euphrates and the Mediterranean, thrived on trade between the east and the west.
Palmyra's architecture, emerging from a barren desert, is especially breathtaking at sunrise and sunset.
Rome's attempts to conquer Palmyria were often thwarted. Palmyra asserted its independence most aggressively under its queen, Zenobia, after her husband was murdered. Zenobia, often painted as a Syrian Cleopatra, was a skillful military commander who seized lands west of Palmyra and hoped to split the world with Roman emperor Aurelian.
Rome turned on Zenobia. She was captured in A.D. 272 as she attempted to flee across the Euphrates on a camel. Romans sacked the city and massacred its inhabitants. According to historical accounts, Romans mocked Zenobia's ambition, carting her to Rome bound in chains of jewel-studded gold.
Palmyra alone makes a visit to Syria worthwhile.
South of Damascus, the city of Bosra has an astonishing collection of Roman temples, baths and columned streets, all constructed in the black volcanic basalt common to the area.
Although the area around Bosra is bleak now, it once grew much of the grain consumed in the Roman empire. The best example of Roman architecture is the spectacular amphitheater, later jacketed by an Arab fortress.
Between Aleppo and Damascus rises Apamea, a city founded in the third century in central Syria's rich farm country. Apamea is presently being restored by Syria's Department of Antiquities.
In Apamea, columns with spiral fluting line a broad stone boulevard. Columns and building fronts, surrounded by blocks and skillfully etched stone hinting at what was there, endow Apamea with a wistful charm.
Along the Euphrates, north of Mari, lies Dura Europos, a mammoth walled city that served as a port along the Euphrates. When I first arrived at Dura Europos, a man offered to escort me on a beat-up Honda motorcycle. After trudging the city for hours, I understood why.
The massive walls of Dura Europos encompass a city that covered 200 acres.
Walls in some places rise to almost 30 feet.
Dura Europos, sometimes called the Pompeii of the Syrian desert, is best known for its variety of religious buildings, including Roman temples and a 2nd century synagogue that has been moved to the National Museum in Damascus. TIME OF THE CRUSADERS
Along coastal mountains of Syria are a string of castles built by medieval Christian crusaders. The most famous is the Krak de Chevalier.
Painstakingly renovated by the French, the Krak has a spectacular view of the Mediterranean and lush rolling hills to the east.
The Krak's stalwart fortifications included two massive walls. Invaders who breached the outside wall would then face a moat and another rampart just as intimidating.
The Krak repelled Muslim attacks until 1271 when crusaders surrendered after a siege.
To the north, a castle known as Qalaat Saladin occupies a ridge between two spectacular ravines. Haunting, lonely, awe-inspiring, the castle abuts a natural ravine.
A site long coveted for its defensive properties, the ridge has been occupied as far back as the Phoenicians. The crusaders built the magnificent castle in the 12th century. In 1188, the castle fell to Salidin, the crusaders' first major casualty in a campaign that eventually drove them from Syria. by CNB