THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 25, 1995 TAG: 9506220073
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: CHAIN REACTION
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 88 lines
THE VENERABLE Steak & Ale restaurant chain has perhaps survived by avoiding culinary trends.
Its restaurants serve up steak and other American mainstays such as lobster, shrimp and chicken. No goat cheese, no roasted garlic, no onion blossoms, thank you.
The Steak & Ale at 5764 E. Virginia Beach Blvd. in Norfolk, might even lay claim as the oldest continuous chain restaurant in Hampton Roads. It was already ensconced there, between the Janaf and Military Circle shopping areas, when the first Bennigan's was established locally just across the street.
As for trends, the Texas owners - Metromedia of Dallas - were wise to hold onto their beefy menu. Steaks eaten out have made a comeback in recent years.
The local establishment - originally called the Jolly Ox because Virginia law once forbade the use of ``ale'' in a restaurant name - is divided into seven rooms. It maintains the aura of a British tavern.
Meals at Steak & Ale are more expensive than a typical chain's but the vegetables and salad bar are included with the entree price. Individual salads also are available.
Because our party of four expected to fill up on steaks, we skipped the appetizers, which included stuffed mushrooms, baked mozzarella cheese, shrimp cocktails and escargots. Prices ranged from $4.29 to $5.99.
We ordered three steak entrees and one with chicken. All were satisfactory or better. Steak & Ale varies its steak dinners by applying different, though not outlandish, sauces and condiments. That might offend some beef purists but we found them quite good.
The Mushroom Stuffed Filet ($14.49) is a tender, 7-ounce cut of meat that, true to billing, wrapped around a fistful of sauteed mushrooms and onions. It made its culinary statement with old-fashioned simplicity.
The Nine Pepper Filet ($15.99) is a 9-ounce slab prepared to order and completed with a brandy peppercorn sauce that carries hints of chili peppers. The flavor was pleasantly piquant - but nothing to fear.
The Sizzling Cabernet Strip ($15.99), a New York strip steak, is cooked in red wine with a small container of the sauce for dipping. Very nice.
Switching from red meat, the blackened chicken ($9.99) is spicy but not all that blackened. Ours was sauteed enough to make it slightly crispy. The seasonings were definitely Cajun but stopped shy of making us reach for the water.
Steak & Ale also applies a mild pepper, black and cayenne, to its diced potatoes. They were perfect accompaniments to the steaks and chicken.
As for dessert, the restaurant's chocolate chip cake ($3.49), sounded simple enough. But it just may be the most decadent meal-ender we've experienced. Rich and laden with chocolate chips, the cake was enough for the four us as well as the diners at the next table.
French silk pie ($3.29) is a soft mousse-like creation that might be easier on the stomach after a meal of steak.
Although Steak & Ale is more an adult eating experience than many chains, there are children's items, including steak and chicken, for under $5.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
LEFT: The Nine-Pepper Filet, pictured with accompaniments, is
pleasantly piquant.
The Steak and Ale in Norfolk is one of the area's oldest continuous
chain restaurants.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Steak & Ale: 5764 E. Virginia Beach Blvd., Norfolk. 461-1271.
Hours: from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Fridays; 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays; noon to 10 p.m. Sundays.
Prices: Regular entrees range from a 6 3/4-ounce sirloin dinner
at $8.99 to lobster tails at $16.29. Beef-seafood combos are priced
from $15.99 to $17.99. Early evening dinner specials (before 6 p.m.)
are offered from $7.29 to $11.99.
Reservations: accepted.
Smoking: usually reserved for one of the seven rooms.
Owned by: MetroMedia Restaurants, Dallas, Texas, which owns about
160 outlets across the nation, including the Norfolk facility and
one in Hampton.
by CNB