THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 25, 1995 TAG: 9506270447
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E5 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: Stephen Harriman
LENGTH: Long : 155 lines
THE LAND now known as Zimbabwe was inhabited as far back as the Stone Age and maybe before by a small group of hunter-gatherers known as the ``San'' people. Gradually they were edged aside by waves of migrant Bantu agriculturists and pastoralists, predominantly the Shona and Ndebele peoples.
The area became known to the rest of the world from the reports by Dr. David Livingstone, a Scottish missionary and explorer, in the mid-19th century. Subsequently. . . .
1890 - Cecil Rhodes, the billionaire king of diamonds (and gold), was set on colonizing the length of Africa from Cape Town to Cairo under the British flag. About 180 pioneers, organized by Rhodes and led by Frederick Selous, traveling by oxcarts from South Africa, moved into a territory north of the Transvaal unknown except to a handful of traders and missionaries - and the indigenous black people. Most of the pioneers were ``British'' South Africans, not ``Dutch'' South Africans.
The native blacks were gradually dispossessed of their land, cattle, culture and independence in a series of bloody conflicts. The Europeans came to regard the Africans as helpless children, if not savages of an inferior species, to justify taking their land from them; the politically correct term for the subjugation was ``pacification,'' although the more honest called it what it was - ``hammering.''
1923 - The charter of Rhodes' company, which had exercised all administrative power since its inception, was abrogated. Whites were given a choice of being incorporated into the Union of South Africa or becoming a self-governing entity known as Southern Rhodesia within the British Empire. They chose the latter. Blacks had no say in the matter. While the whites never institutionalized racism the way South Africa did, blacks didn't fare much better than their counterparts in the adjacent country.
1963 - Southern Rhodesia began negotiating with London for independence.
1964 - The U.K. granted independence to Northern Rhodesia (which became Zambia) and Nyasaland (Malawi), but demanded that the whites in Southern Rhodesia demonstrate their intent to move toward eventual majority rule.
1965 - Ian Smith and his Rhodesian Front Party declared independence unilaterally.
1970 - Smith proclaimed the State of Rhodesia, renouncing allegiance to the British crown. The world responded by isolating Smith's fiefdom.
1972-79 - Internal conflicts intensified to what is now called the Liberation War. It claimed 27,000 lives.
1979 - Rhodesia reverted to the status of a British colony.
1980 - Colony became the independent, black-ruled nation of Zimbabwe. The white population today is estimated to be about 70,000 out of a total of about 12 million. ILLUSTRATION: Graphic
TRAVELER'S ADVISORY
ZIMBABWE is a large (about the size of California or France),
landlocked country in southern Africa, surrounded by (clockwise from
the north) Zambia, Mozambique, South Africa and Botswana. Much of
the country, from southwest to northeast, consists of a central
plateau 3,000-4,000 above sea level; this area is semi-arid and much
resembles west Texas and parts of New Mexico and Arizona. There is a
mountainous (6,000-8,000 feet) region along the eastern border.
Formerly a British colony known as Rhodesia or Southern Rhodesia
- and, briefly, a rogue state ruled by a white minority, torn by
civil war and shunned by the rest of the world - Zimbabwe has been
an independent nation since 1980. Its leaders initially tried a
Marxist approach to government (President Robert Mugabe still is
known as ``comrade'') but that didn't work there any better than it
has anywhere else, and a free-market economy prevails today.
The capital is Harare (formerly Salisbury), a modern,
European-like city with high-rise blocks, smart shops, spacious
streets, manicured parks and more than 1 million people. The
country's population is about 12 million.
Getting there: Air Zimbabwe, the country's modern and efficient
flag carrier, has (10-hour) nonstop overnight flights (Boeing 767s)
to and from London Gatwick four days a week (as well as to other
European gateways), but not North America. Its business class is on
a par with all others I have experienced - pampered attention,
ergonomically designed seats, etc. Air Zim does have partnership
agreements with Continental and Northwest for special fares from the
United States.
Getting in: U.S. citizens need a valid passport to enter Zimbabwe
but not a visa; however, visa requirements change from time to time
so check with a travel agent. To get out, a $20 departure stamp is
required, payable in U.S. currency only.
Health considerations: Inoculation for tetanus/diphtheria and
typhoid and a polio booster are recommended. Malaria is prevalent in
much of Zimbabwe. Your doctor or the public health service can
advise on the most appropriate course of prophylactics (I was taking
Larium, which a Zimbabwe guide told me was worthless as a
preventative but might help if I got malaria); malaria medicine,
rather pricey, normally is taken at least a week before your visit,
during your stay and for four weeks after. Do not swim in or drink
water from rivers and lakes, as they may be infested with bilharzia,
a debilitating if not deadly parasite. Water in towns, hotels and
swimming pools is from purified central water supplies and is
perfectly safe to drink. The sun is intense much of the year; both a
brimmed hat and strong sunblock are advisable. A woman who had
canoed three days on the Zambezi told me SPF30 sunblock really
wasn't adequate.
Getting along: English is the official language and is widely
spoken and understood. The two majority tongues are Shona and
Sindebele, spoken by the natives of Bantu stock.
Getting around: Rental cars are available in most cities; your
U.S. driver's license is valid. Remember, though, this is a large
country and driving is time-consuming. Driving is British-style:
right-hand steering wheel, left-hand side of the road. Air Zimbabwe
and other smaller domestic airlines offer frequent and reasonably
priced flights on light aircraft to all tourist destinations.
Shopping: Zimbabwe is a paradise. U.S. dollars go a long way and
there are true values here, particularly local crafts and
world-renowned Shona sculpture. The Canon Paterson Craft Centre and
the Chapungu Sculpture Park in Harare, where stone cutters and
sculptors work, are not to be missed.
When to go: South of the equator, the seasons are the reverse of
ours. Christmas falls in mid-summer and winter is May to August
(outer wear necessary at night). Because of the altitude, the
temperature is relatively mild year-round; October is hottest,
November-March the rainy season.
Accommodations: The range is wide, from luxury, world-class
hotels and resorts to tented safari camps, all inspected regularly
by the government and graded with stars, 1-5. Even the tent camps
have hot and cold running water and flush toilets. I stayed at both
the elegant Sheraton and Meikles in Harare, at the Ketete Safari
Lodge above Lake Kariba, Chikwenga Safari Lodge near Mana Pools on
the Zambezi River, Makololo Lodge in Hwange National Park and Camp
Amalinda in the rugged Matopo Hills, at the Victoria Falls Safari
Lodge and at the Great Zimbabwe adjacent to the historic national
monument of the same name; all are highly recommended.
Food: A decided British influence; that is to say nothing very
imaginative but quite good and substantial. Locals are particularly
proud of Zimbabwe beef, as they should be. A few exotic choices as
well. I sampled smoked crocodile tail (delicious, much like pork
loin), ostrich (a texture like chicken-fried steak, a taste similar
to liver), impala (outstanding, sort of like venison but without a
strong gamy taste) and a fish called klip (delicate white flesh
without a fishy taste).
Helpful reading: Both the ``Spectrum Guide to Zimbabwe'' and the
``Rough Guide to Zimbabwe and Botswana'' and excellent. If you're in
search of animals, the Zimbabwe section of ``Africa's Top Wildlife
Countries'' by Mark W. Nolting is particularly informative..
Touring advice: Check out package deals. Buying a ``package''
does not mean you will be confined to a set itinerary unless you
want it that way and help plan it. Many packages simply provide air
fare and hotels at a better rate than you could arrange for
yourself. Ask a travel agent with experience in African travel or
contact Air Zimbabwe (800) 742-3006.
Info: A local travel agent or Zimbabwe Tourist Office,
Rockefeller Center Suite 412, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York,
N.Y. 10020; (212) 332-1090.
- Stephen Harriman
by CNB