THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 2, 1995 TAG: 9506290257
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 16 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY JENNIFER CHRISTMAN, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: NAGS HEAD LENGTH: Medium: 75 lines
LAS TRANCAS Restaurant and Tavern, the Outer Banks' newest home for south-of-the-border spice, is a feast for the eye.
The restaurant, whose name translates to ``tree trunks,'' is a spectacle inside and out. On the outside, the beige building would appear almost nondescript but for eye-catching sculptures of a surfer, dolphins and seagulls perched above the entrance.
Polished logs-turned-benches greet diners as they enter, while the interior boasts built-in wooden booths and finished branches as dividers and decorations. Green plants complement the restaurant's laid-back, natural feel.
Fidel Escovar, owner of Las Trancas, has spent more than a year renovating the restaurant from what once was a grocery store. Escovar's goal for the restaurant, he says, is to offer ``the finest Mexican food.''
But as the menu develops in this new place, the restaurant may for awhile be a bigger feast for the eye than the appetite.
Before eating at Las Trancas, I had heard good reviews from a friend who already has eaten there twice. He raved about the fresh, homemade chips the restaurant served with salsa before the meal.
The chips that a friend and I were served one Friday night were tasty, but hard, as if they had been sitting out for a while. The salsa, thin and mild, is perfect for people who cannot stomach large fiery chunks of vegetables.
We began our meals with chicken quesadillas ($5.95), semi-crisp tortilla pieces filled with cheese, tomato, onion and jalapeno peppers. The lightly marinated chicken was tasty and tender.
At first glance, Las Trancas' inexpensive menu looks limited. But if you're hankering for a traditional Mexican dish that's not listed, the cooks - all of whom spent years cooking in Texas - will happily whip it up for you.
Escovar says the restaurant will expand its dinner selections in the near future and will soon offer a lunch menu.
For dinner, I ordered Spanish mackerel, the catch of the day ($7.95). The flaky, light fillets were broiled and accented with a spicy sprinkle of Old Bay seasoning. Because baked potatoes do not qualify as a Mexican specialty, I won't fault Las Trancas for my tough, lukewarm spud.
Awaiting the crackle of the chicken fajitas ($7.75) that my friend ordered, I was suprised when our food arrived in silence. The fajitas, - a bed of peppers, onions and chicken accompanied by two flour tortillas, sat mute on the plate. They were good, if unceremonious.
With room still left for dessert, I ordered the ``fried'' ice cream ($1.95), which Susan, our friendly waitress, warned me would not wear the traditional crusty coating of honey, cinnamon and corn flakes. But I enjoyed my simple honey- and walnut-laden ice cream just fine.
My friend ordered Las Trancas' only other dessert selection - pie a la mode ($1.25). Maybe the slice of pecan pie was not like mom's, but the good-sized piece was well worth the low price.
The dessert may be the perfect analogy for our Las Trancas dining experience - mild, and no frills, but reasonable and satisfying. MEMO: LAS TRANCAS RESTAURANT & TAVERN
Where: Milepost 11 on the Beach Road.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Lunch hours have not yet been determined.
Phone: 441-9330.
Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa, Discover.
Entertainment: Weekly live music.
Features: Mexican-style seafood vegetarian dishes.
Beverages: Soft drinks, tea, juice, coffee, beer, wine and mixed
drinks.
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Reservations: Not required ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Las Trancas, whose name translates to ``tree trunks,'' is a
spectacle inside and out. And the food's just as interesting.
by CNB