THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 2, 1995 TAG: 9507050205
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: BILL OF FARE
SOURCE: BY JERRY CRONIN, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: Long : 109 lines
VACATIONERS AND year-round residents have been treated to an increase in the number of fine restaurants on North Carolina's Outer Banks.
In the top ranks of this or any other restaurant grouping is The Blue Point Bar & Grill on Route 12 in The Waterfront Shops at Duck.
Situated in the north beach area, the atmosphere is pleasant, relaxed and appropriate to a spot on the Banks. Owners John Power and Sam McGann have created an updated diner decor, with glass-block partitioning walls, red vinyl chairs and booths, black laminate tables and black-and-white diamond floor tiles.
Dining is available outside, inside or on an enclosed porch. We chose the porch, soothing with the sounds of crickets, ducks and frogs coming from the Currituck Sound, just outside our window.
Although the atmosphere recalls the comforts of a diner, the food is anything but plain. Executive Chef McGann offers a short but ambitious menu, using numerous trendy ingredients.
The restaurant's creative contemporary fare emphasizes seafood. It also includes meatless offerings, such as the starter of peppered goat cheese with roasted garlic, sun-dried tomato oil, black olives, anchovies and homemade foccacia or the entree of wild mushroom rolatini with seasonal vegetables and red and yellow bell pepper purees.
We started our meal with mushrooms in two forms. A cup of the homemade soup of the day was an earthy compilation of morels, smoked salmon, ramps and cream. It was rich, and a bowl would have made a satisfying meal. The other starter we sampled looked like a large, juicy hamburger, but was actually grilled portobello mushrooms sandwiched around fennel and flavored with capers, pesto and feta cheese. As with the remainder of our dinner, the ingredients were well balanced, tasty and interesting.
On a return visit we may try the salt cod and smoked trout brandade with creme fraiche and American golden caviar.
For the next course we enjoyed the complexity of tastes in a salad of watercress with country ham, sun-dried cherries, toasted almonds and gorgonzola dressing. The flavors of good salty ham, tangy cherries and sweet almonds were offset by the slight bitterness of the watercress. With a gorgonzola dressing that was not overpowering, the effect was quite pleasing. The second salad was romaine leaves with a Caesar dressing and brioche croutons. With the addition of a few optional anchovies, it was pleasant and straightforward.
Its crab cakes are as close as the Blue Point gets to standard beach fare; here, they are prepared with homemade remoulade. We passed them up, along with the seafood saute with chorizo and grilled tenderloin of beef with vegetables - not because we doubted they would be wonderful, but because we wanted to try some of the more unusual offerings.
The cashew-crusted Atlantic Maine salmon with red curry couscous, baby bok choy and Thai coconut broth didn't disappoint. The salmon was well-prepared and paired nicely with the couscous and slightly hot coconut broth. The baby bok choy made for a pretty presentation but added little to the flavor.
The star of our entrees was the seared jumbo sea scallops on a bed of ancho chili coulis, topped by a tasty herb salad and accompanied by a corn polenta cake, tomatilla salsa and a few grilled vegetables. It was a perfect blend of flavors, and the scallops were among the best we've had in years.
Other interesting-sounding entrees were the grilled Smithfield pork chop with Oriental barbecue sauce and chile-glazed mangoes and the off-menu special of pan-seared tuna with wasabi coleslaw. The restaurant also usually offers a nightly veal special, such as the 12-ounce veal chop with saute of portabello mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns.
Faced with a tempting dessert menu, we had part of our ample entrees wrapped to go and proceeded on to fresh coffee and the vanilla bean creme brulee and a warm flourless chocolate cake on a raspberry coulis. Both were outstanding and well worth saving room for. Next time we may sample the Kentucky bourbon pecan pie, Key lime pie or the cheesecake.
The wine list offered a fine selection. Prices ranged from $14 for a Capezzana, Chianti Montalbano, Italy, '93, to $97 for the Caymus Vineyards, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon '82. Wines were also available by the glass.
On the recommendation of our friendly and attentive waitress, we chose a Ferrari Carano Chardonnay, Alexander Valley '93. It was a fitting accompaniment to the range of flavors in our meal with pleasant oak, vanilla and citrus overtones.
Blue Point fans at the southern end of the Outer Banks will be pleased to know that Power and McGann plan to open a second restaurant in early August. Called Ocean Boulevard, the new restaurant will be in the old Virginia Dare Hardware Store at about milepost 2 on the Beach Road in Kitty Hawk.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: Color photo
DREW WILSON/Staff
Sam McGann serves Seared Jumbo Sea Scallops With Crisp Corn Polenta,
Herb Salad and Tomatillo Relish and Ancho Chili Cream.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
The Blue Point Bar & Grill, The Waterfront Shops, Route 12, Duck,
N.C. (919) 261-8090.
Cuisine: Modern Southern cooking
Atmosphere: Casual diner-style ambience on the edge of the
Currituck Sound.
Prices: Starters from $5.95 to $7.95; main dishes from $13.95 to
$19.95; desserts from $3.50 to $4.50
Hours: Dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. daily.
Reservations: Recommended, seven days in advance.
Smoking: About 25 percent inside
by CNB