THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 23, 1995 TAG: 9507200047
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 82 lines
RUBY TUESDAY is proof that traditional chain-restaurant fare and decor are still big lures.
Customers crowd the restaurant at 4488 Virginia Beach Blvd., near Pembroke Mall in Virginia Beach, to dine under Tiffany-like lamps amid bric-a-brac-adorned walls and to feast on fajitas, chicken teriyaki, barbecued ribs or from the salad bar.
If this is your style, Ruby will please you. It's a little noisy, but the atmosphere seems to evoke cheer and amiability. Loosen up and enjoy.
The prices also are enticing. The only entree over $10 is the Triple-Play Fajitas, which includes chicken, steak and shrimp for $11.99.
Ruby Tuesday restaurants are owned by Morrison's, the same people who run those staid cafeterias. But they know their business. One company official estimates the chain is growing nationwide by one Ruby per week; there are more than 300 restaurants.
Our party of four dined at Ruby's on a recent Saturday night. Service was hectic but attentive. The manager stopped by frequently to make sure all was well.
We began with the Santa Fe Sampler ($6.99), a big plate of nachos, stuffed jalapenos and quesadillas. They were easy to eat and went fast.
We also sampled two small bowls of soup: gumbo and Italian sausage. Both were hearty and spicy at $1.99 each.
For main dishes, we ordered the chicken and steak combo fajita ($8.99), baby-back ribs ($8.49), pasta marinara ($5.99) and Sonora chicken pasta ($7.99).
Fajitas, of course, are on the menu of many chains. With the meat served sizzling at the table, they are fun and easy to eat. At Ruby's, the chicken and steak had the typical lime-juice marinade and were accompanied by the usual pico de gallo, cheese, sour cream and flour tortillas. A tried-and-true formula and it works.
The ribs, too, would be familiar to any chain diner - meaty and tender with a mild, smoky, tomato-based sauce. The coleslaw served with the ribs was exceptional: fresh and crunchy, not the cabbage mush sometimes served in restaurants.
The pasta marinara, noodles topped with a spicy sauce, Parmesan cheese and scallions, would be hard to goof. Ruby's didn't, although the pasta might have been a tad overdone.
Sonora chicken pasta is a cross-ethnic blend - another chain innovation - of Italy and southwestern United States. The pasta is combined with grilled, marinated chicken, cheese sauce, scallions and black beans. At Ruby's, the marriage of Rome and Santa Fe was good - more Southwestern than Italian, though.
Ruby's big dessert - the Tallcake - comes in chocolate Oreo or strawberry; it's $5.99 for two, $3.99 for one. ``You can't eat these alone,'' the menu boasts, and it's true.
Ruby Tuesday is just right for a night out with the kids. Children can color the table mats and order from their own menu - burgers, chicken fingers, spaghetti and grilled cheese sandwiches - for less than $2.99 per entree.
MEMO: Reviews of chain restaurants with stores in Hampton Roads are based on a
single, unannounced visit by a party of two or three, unless otherwise
noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for the reviewer's
meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
The only entree over $10 is Triple-Play Fajitas, which combines
sizzling chicken, steak and shrimp.
Photo
[Like many chain restaurants, Ruby Tuesday features a salad bar.]
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
[For complete graphic, please see microfilm]
by CNB