THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 30, 1995 TAG: 9508010424
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: BILL OF FARE
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Long : 108 lines
FAMILY-STYLE dining is the premise behind the Great In-Pasta, which opened in April at 30th Street and Pacific Avenue in Virginia Beach.
Except for desserts, every item on the menu comes in portions for one or two; double portions cost less than twice the single price.
For families who like to share the same dish, this system is smart; for example, a single serving of pasta with clam sauce is $11.95, a double $16.95. Because my family of experimenters always orders as many items as there are people, this arrangement is less of a bargain. Nonetheless, single-portion prices for many dishes, especially pastas, are fair.
And if our one visit is any indication, the concept has found an eager audience at the renovated site that longtime Beach people will remember as the former Golden Dragon and then as a string of short-lived eateries.
Partners Ralphie Balsamo and Gennaro Castiglione, who is also chef, brought the concept south from Balsamo's former venue, DaPino in Long Island, New York.
Despite its cutesy name and showy sign, the interior of the Great In-Pasta is subdued, in grays and greens. Exposed ceiling pipes are painted black to match the enameled curved chairs. Etched-glass panels add a touch of light and a square column-cum-wine rack adds a touch of class.
A huge painted menu in bright green divides two dining areas. Wearing tuxedo shirts and bow ties, servers look comfortingly professional. But the cocktail waitresses in halter tops and tight pants or short skirts look like they belong in another restaurant.
Despite having too many tables to deal with, our waiter was good-natured and thoughtful, answering our numerous questions about dishes, recommending wines, and keeping our water glasses and bread basket replenished.
We started with two items from the extensive list of cold and hot appetizers. A tossed Italian insalata was as pleasing as our server promised, its romaine lettuce base fresh, the tomato and onions and light vinaigrette just enough garnish for a hot summer night. An order of fried calamari brought a huge portion of relatively greaseless, lightly breaded squid. Untried were mussels, clams, sauteed vegetables, mozzarella with tomatoes and several other green salads.
Our favorite among three main dishes was chicken scarparielo. The single-serving portion was large enough to share at $15.95 and attractively served in a shallow bowl almost overflowing with chicken, roasted red and green peppers, spicy Italian sausage and chunks of potatoes. Fragrant with olive oil and garlic, this comfort stew might well be served at a family meal. Other chicken preparations included lemon-butter sauce and seasoned breaded breast.
Veal selections were plentiful. At $12.95, a single portion of veal alla Marsala was tasty and reasonably priced. The meat was a touch floury on the surface but the sauce was well balanced and the plate filled out with green beans in marinara sauce and a potato croquette. Several other veal cutlets and veal chops are available, along with a couple of beef steaks.
Seafood listings were shrimp, calamari and fish of the day. We were tempted by an off-menu special of Canadian salmon with pesto, available only as a portion for two at $19.95. This dish came with shoestring potatoes; adding pasta cost another $5. The salmon fillet was tasty enough but not large enough for two to share; however, the linguine was enough for two hearty appetites. But that brought the price to $24.95.
Pasta dishes offer diners a list of sauces and choice of noodle style; a half-dozen dishes were as low as $8.95 for a single serving. One can order traditional Bolognese (tomato-meat sauce), for example, with flat, curly, or tubular pasta.
Sweets surprised us by their size and quality but weren't inexpensive at $4.95 each. Homemade cannoli was not the familiar tube shape but a pastry basket filled with lightly sweetened creamy mascarpone cheese; Italian cheesecake made with ricotta cheese was slightly grainy, scented with orange, and not too sweet. Tartufo, promoted as ``Italy's version of a bonbon,'' meant slices of vanilla ice cream glazed with thick chocolate and served on a pool of vanilla cream with chocolate swirls. Alas, they were sold out of tiramisu.
People unwilling to wait half an hour or more for a table were being turned away on a Wednesday night in June, so reservations are advisable in summer. With all meals made to order in the open kitchen in the back corner, large portions at reasonable prices, and better quality than one expects at a 250-seat restaurant in a beach town, the Great In-Pasta is not pretending with its claim of family-style dining.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Seafood Salad for Two ($15.95) contains shrimp and other ocean
delicacies.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Great In-Pasta, 2914 Pacific Ave. (corner of 30th and Pacific),
Virginia Beach, 428-5400.
Cuisine: southern Italian pastas, veals, chicken, and seafood in
large family-size portions.
Atmosphere: casual green and gray decor, black enamel chairs and
etched-glass trims. Large parking lot.
Prices: starters, salads and side dishes from $3.95 to $15.95;
pasta and main dishes from $8.95 to $24.95; sweets $4.95; children's
portions available on request. All meals 15 percent off before 6:30
p.m.
Hours: from 5 to 11 p.m. daily.
Reservations: recommended.
Smoking: about 20 percent of seating area.
by CNB