THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 13, 1995 TAG: 9508100046
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: BILL OF FARE
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: By DEBRA GORDON, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Long : 119 lines
FOR 43 YEARS, Isle of Capri has been known for its table-side Caesar salads, its homemade Italian specialities, and the dim yet romantic atmosphere of its Laskin Road location.
In April, this venerable Hampton Roads dining establishment reopened with new ownership and a new location - six floors up into bright, airy environs in the Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort on 39th Street and Atlantic Avenue in Virginia Beach. Here, floor-to-ceiling windows nearly distract diners from the menu, with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean, boardwalk and beach.
The view is available from nearly any table - be it those nestled up against the windows, or the comfortable semi-circular banquets, covered in pastel floral prints and facing the ocean.
The atmosphere is serene and elegant, with a single fresh rose and votive lamps gracing each table.
Longtime diners will be relieved to know, however, that only the location and ownership have changed. There is still an Arcese in the kitchen - Pasquale Arcese, son of the restaurant's founder. And the menu has remained the same, true to the origins of the senior Arcese, who based his menu on his mother's Italian cooking.
On a recent Saturday night, with the early evening sky still illuminating the bathers six floors below, we reluctantly tore our eyes from the foaming surf to peruse the menu.
We decided to forgo the evening's two flounder specials, one stuffed with crabmeat and served with spinach and roasted potatoes, the other sauteed in lemon and butter.
From the eight appetizers listed, we chose the Calamari Fritti ($4.95) and a Mediterranean Grilled Shrimp ($6.50). The squid was disappointingly bland, the marinara sauce served alongside providing little assistance in perking up its flavor. But the generous helping of large, shelled shrimp in their vinaigrette bath, mixed with feta cheese, olives, tomatoes and red onions, proved a light yet flavorful beginning.
Other appetizers included Mozzarella e Pomodoro ($4.95), which we sampled during a later visit. It sounded delectable as described by our efficient waitress - fresh tomatoes, homemade mozzarella and fresh basil in a vinaigrette - but the pale tomatoes looked as though they were topped with dried basil.
Clams Oreganati ($4.95) was more successful, with a succulent herbed topping hiding six small but sweet crustaceans.
Other untested appetizers included Clams Casino, Clams on the Half Shell and Grilled Stuffed Eggplant ($4.95 each), and Mussels Marinara ($5.95).
The tradition at Isle of Capri, is, of course, the Caesar Salad ($8.95), prepared tableside for two. It makes for quite an intriguing production to watch the waitress carefully mix the garlic, egg (yes, real egg kept chilled until the last possible minute), anchovies and herbs into freshly washed romaine lettuce. The result was a tangy, crunchy perfection of a salad - and a nice bit of tableside entertainment.
The Antipasto ($5.95) had the requisite ingredients - salami, a thin slice of prosciutto, hot peppers, pepperocini; unfortunately, its lettuce was wilted. The Capri House Salad ($4.95) was a skimpy blend of wilted lettuce, a few olives and pepperocini, a smattering of feta cheese and pale tomatoes.
Entrees are neatly divided into pasta, seafood, chicken, pizza and specialty categories.
We skipped the pizzas, which ranged from $5.50 for the traditional tomato and mozzarella to $6.95 for the Pizza Formaggio alla Florentine, with four cheeses and spinach. A pizza, along with the Caesar salad, would make a satisfying meal.
Instead, on one visit, my husband opted for the Pork Chop della Alba ($14.95), an enormously thick chop char-grilled and smothered with porcini mushrooms and onions in a rich wine sauce. This was indeed a delight; the pork tender and chewy, the sauce the perfect foil. I chose the Veal Francese ($14.95), veal scaloppine served in a tangy lemon butter sauce. Unfortunately, the veal was a bit greasy in its battered coating, the taste of oil hiding its sweetness.
During a second visit, the classic Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($14.95) brought a plate filled with large shrimp and a few clams. It could have been a tad more spicy. But Veal Marsala ($14.95) tasted little of sweet Marsala wine; instead, the flavor reminded us of pre-packaged gravy.
The Steak Pizzaiola ($15.95), proved a better choice, offering, as it did, a large New York Strip, charred nicely on the outside and covered with a flavorful caper, olive and tomato sauce.
Other entrees included Lasagna al Forno ($8.95), Classic Fettuccine Alfredo ($8.95), Chicken Verona ($11.95) sauteed with artichoke hearts, mushrooms and white wine, and Salmone di Casa, poached salmon in white wine topped with a dill cream sauce ($14.95). A Grilled Veal Chop at $18.85 was the most expensive dish on the menu.
Most entrees are served with a small dish of pasta topped with marinara sauce. Two vegetables, Sauteed Spinach and Steamed Broccoli (both $2.50), also are available.
The restaurant shines with its desserts (from $2.95 to $5.95). Most are homemade and none disappointed. A chocolate caramel pecan pie tasted like Heath Bar candy and was sinfully rich and sweet. A praline-and-cream cake was light and airy. But the star was the homemade cannelloni, with its crisp, light shell and sweet mascarpone filling, large enough to satisfy.
A wine list offers a comfortable selection of Italian and American wines, with a handful offered by the glass.
Isle of Capri is worth the visit, if only for the view - and the dessert. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTO
In Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($14.95), shrimp are sauteed in marinara sauce
with whole clams and served over linguine.
The Isle of Capri moved in April to the sixth floor of the Holiday
Inn SunSpree Resort.
Photo
ROY A. BAHLS PHOTO
Tony Raffule, maitre d' at Isle of Capri, displays some of the
restaurant's wine offerings.
by CNB