THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 13, 1995 TAG: 9508110337
SECTION: COMMENTARY PAGE: J3 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: GEORGE TUCKER
LENGTH: Medium: 73 lines
Oldtime Norfolkians with long memories and a zest for good food will readily recall the many memorable eating places that once lured them downtown like gastronomic magnets.
The ones I'll mention here are those I frequented regularly. If you don't find your pet eateries on my list, don't think I left them off intentionally.
There was Childs' - the white-tile-walled cafe on the ground floor of the old Atlantic Hotel on lower Granby Street. Spotlessly clean and cooled with lazily rotating overhead electric fans, the place was famous for creamed chicken served over buttery waffles. Another specialty was lace-edged pancakes turned out by an exhibitionist chef on a hot plate near one of the front windows.
Among Childs' longtime employees was a taciturn waitress jocularly known as ``Happy,'' who seemingly never smiled. Because Childs' around-the-clock operation attracted Norfolk's youthful night owls of the Flapper Era, the police kept a watchful eye on the place from midnight on.
The W.G. Swartz department store tea room was completely different. Occupying a bird's eye elevation on an upper floor of the store's Plume Street annex, it was a dignified, white linen-bedecked rendezvous for those who enjoyed leisurely lunches. It specialized in Southern fried chicken, batter bread, homemade rolls and fresh vegetables in season, the high windowed dining room was also famous for three-layered Lady Baltimore cakes served with hefty dollops of peach or vanilla ice cream.
On a more democratic level was Norfolk's most popular hot dog establishment, a one-counter joint on City Hall Avenue next to what began as the Arcade but later became the Byrd Theater. Presided over by genial George Bacalis sporting a jaunty paper cap, the place reeked of chopped onions and wieners sizzling on an open grille. But the chili-garnished hot dogs George dished out were so succulent that at least one customer couldn't get enough of them. During World War II, a sailor chalked up an all-time record by stowing away 18 hot dogs with all the trimmings, washed down by six soft drinks. Later, according to George, he returned and asked for a dose of bicarbonate of soda.
Just around the corner from George's place was Doc's Sea Food Restaurant, another hole in the wall operation on Monticello Avenue. The gastronomic riches of the Chesapeake Bay it featured were a feast for the gods. Operated by ``Doc'' Twiford, who was usually busy shucking oysters to be eaten on the half shell, the place was nationally famous for three things: a thickly rich clam chowder, Crab Norfolk made with backfin crab and butter, and boiled dinners garnished with slices of Smithfield ham.
Then there was the Oriental, Norfolk's first elegant Far East eatery up two flights of marble stairs overlooking College Place and Granby street. Lighted with tasseled red lacquer Chinese lanterns and furnished with black wood tables inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the Oriental's menu ran the gamut from chop suey to the most elaborate Cantonese cookery.
Last, but not least, was Smith and Welton's Tea Room, the town's most popular gathering place for lunch - and gossip. Once when I asked a friend if she knew about a particularly juicy piece of news making the rounds, she replied, ``No, but give me a few minutes in Smith and Welton's Tea Room and I'll collect all of the details for you!''
Foodwise, I fondly recall the chicken salad, a specialty, accompanied by a slice of tomato aspic which one waitress always referred to as ``aspect.'' Then there were the heavenly desserts - lemon chess pie, apple pie with whipped cream and a sinfully rich coconut cake. There was also a simpler item on the menu - toasted cheese sandwiches made with the restaurant's special spread. Fortunately, I have the recipe, and here it is.
Take one pound of sharp Cheddar cheese, one half of an onion, four strips of green pepper, four tablespoons of mayonnaise and four teaspoons of catsup. Grate the cheese, onion and green pepper together. Add the other ingredients and mix well. Chill - then enjoy it on crackers or toast in memory of one of Norfolk's most memorable eating places of the past. by CNB