THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 20, 1995 TAG: 9508170243
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND
LENGTH: Medium: 93 lines
THERE ARE TWO THINGS the Swan Cove restaurant can boast of: unique dining and an excellent view of incredible sunsets.
Swan Cove opened its newly hung doors six weeks ago, and the one-hour waiting list around dusk most of last week shows that supporters of this establishment have discovered the food and view.
The building sports an unfinished upstairs lounge, scheduled to open in the winter. Outside decks face the Currituck Sound, and owners Larry and Richard Herron hope someday to add a pier that would allow boaters access to the restaurant.
The Herrons, father and son, along with head chef Mark Harrison and manager Woody West, had a dream to bring something different to the Outer Banks.
``Our goal is to be the best restaurant on the Outer Banks,'' said Mac Ritter, one of Swan Cove's five chefs. ``From the moment our customers walk in till they leave, we want to offer the best in wine, service and ambiance.''
On a recent weeknight, three family members and I experienced this service and ambiance. West greeted us at the door, and we were seated immediately. Water glasses were promptly filled, and drink orders were taken.
Wine is sold by the glass or bottle from a list offering more than 30 selections of white and red varieties. There is also full bar service.
Four food items are offered for starters, plus the soup and gumbo of the day. We tried the spicy jumbo scallops with summer melon and papaya ($6.95), and a cup of the sausage gumbo ($2.50). Three huge scallops topped with Cajun seasoning definitely got our attention. Garnishes of summer melon and papaya put out the fire.
The sausage gumbo is a hearty combination of chorizo sausage with vegetable broth, okra and spices, carefully stirred and simmered for two hours, Chef Ritter says.
For the main course, we ordered the veal chop ($25.95), a special of the evening; seafood bouillabaisse, shellfish and shrimp with pasta ($18.95); and Atlantic salmon with potato salad ($18.95), another special.
The veal chop, about 12 ounces, arrived medium rare, as ordered. New red potatoes and an enormous ear of fresh corn on the cob accompanied the order. My grilled Atlantic salmon on a bed of potato salad was perfection.
There is no children's menu. But a pasta dish, either parmesan linguini or lasagna, is offered for $6.95. My youngest companion chose to eat the mussels from his mother's order of bouillabaisse, and lots of bread and butter. He gave the mussels a definite thumbs-up - and took the intriguing shells home in a doggy bag.
Desserts are made by a pastry chef and are so light, it's almost like eating sweet air. We ordered two to share, a chocolate sambuca torte and a blueberry tart, $4.95 each.
The torte is a marvelous chocolate cake layered with sambuca icing - a light licorice flavor - and served with an espresso sauce anglaise. The blueberry tart is a pie-slice of French vanilla cream, wrapped in French pastry and topped with fresh blueberries.
All of the produce used in food preparation is locally grown for as long as it's available.
``The blueberries came from Currituck County,'' Ritter says. ``Our specials for the evening are sometimes determined as late as 3 p.m. when the seasonal products come in.''
``We are still so new,'' Chef Ritter says, ``but six months down the road, our goal will still be the food. Whether international or local, it will be taste and portion. You won't find french fries in this restaurant.''
The newness of the restaurant is evident in the smell of the wood and the clean white walls. Swan prints and stained-glass swans decorate the spacious dining area. Deep pink tablecloths and a vase of fresh flowers add a touch of beauty and color.
The immense windows were designed to give every diner a view of the Currituck Sound. And on clear evenings, they offer a spectacle to behold when the sun slips away for the night. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by MARTIN SMITH-RODDEN
Swan Cove's hour-long waiting list shows that supporters of this
establishment have discovered the food and the view.
Graphic
SWAN COVE RESTAURANT
Where: N.C. 12 in Duck.
Hours: Dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. daily.
Phone: 255-0500.
Reservations: Required for parties of six or more.
Features: Fine dining with seafood and an emphasis on grilled
entrees, with nightly specials. Prices range from $12.95 to $25.95.
Beverages: Wine, mixed drinks, beer, soft drinks, tea, coffee.
Payment: All major credit cards accepted.
Handicapped Accessible: Yes.
by CNB